jlr sdd 166 on windows 10 – working ccf editor, no vm
hey folks,
i spent way too long trying to get jlr sdd v166 running properly on windows 10 to adjust the ccf on my 2006 range rover (enabling aux, changing drl settings, single unlock, etc)...
Ah… still worth a phone call to Matt to discuss. Things may have changed. He’s a nice guy that will try to help.
If you have a friend or family in the UK, perhaps they could help you… 😉
Even if not in UK, I’m pretty sure you could post it over to Matt for the fix.
It’s only the ECM you need to send - so a 6” by 6” light box.
Great service from the company - a few here have used them.
Hi folks - I'm by now familiar with all the juddering issues, auto fault finder videos etc.
Quick genesis
- droning noise from rear diff, had a diff shop rebuild it, droning went away
- very soon after I started getting juddering in full lock...
i'm not in UK so that's not an option unfortunately - also, my question was primarily whether I can try to figure out whether it's diff or really the accumulator for which the scrabbler stopper mod helps
This is exactly what mine did, a while after I rebuilt my diff. My hypothesis was that the slack diff bearings hide the scrabbling Haldex as there's much play in the gears.
Removing the play with a good diff shows up the Haldex issue.
There are...
Make sure the items that LR say don't need servicing for 10 years, or 150k miles have been done. This includes the timing belt, Haldex service, rear diff oil, PTU oil, gearbox oil, coolant, and brake fluid.
If not then factor the cost of doing...
Have you confirmed the battery is charging.
Could be a bad earth, when it gives the fault test battery voltage plus to minus and also plus to earthed points, ie the engine. Should all be similar readings.
You'll need a F1 specific code reader for it to connect to the ABS.
You may find a generic tool that will talk tot he ABS - but that's hit or miss.
If the reader is just talking to the main engine ECU it won't find the codes. In fact, it's...
https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/land-rover-freelander-parts/
All the LR diagrams are there with all the parts listed. It's a very useful resource
SOLVED
The clunking was the o/s BRAND NEW Borg & Beck top mount bearing on the strut.
Identified and switched out for a LR top mount bearing, no more clunking!
The guys at https://www.freelanderspecialist.com/ found it inside 5 minutes. They...
If there's no charge controller between the solar panel and battery, the voltage will climb high enough to boil the battery.
Even a cheap Chinese £10 charge controller will prevent battery damage...
So I changed the Crank Sensor tonight and the car is running. No stops or jolts so far. I am too scared to drive it around the block because I don't want to sit there for hours waiting for a recovery van. So just running it on the drive for now...
Remember you will need to bleed the fuel system after changing the fuel filter one of these below is very useful.
1
2
What fuel filter did you purchase same as below ?
3
4
Do not try to start the car unless it as been bleed.
The crank sensor...
Update;
Given that I have not touched the hub (appreciate it ‘could’ be damaged), and there is no noticeable wobble when rocking the wheel left/right or up/down, I’m ruling that out at present.
Given that I’ve also double-checked the struts and...
If it clicking I would assume it trying to start. The Park switch usually does not allow that.
A good code reader will help you out, but whilst you waiting double check all battery/starter connections and earths.
Double check any connections that...
Have you done an air path calibration? The ECM calculates the MAF values during the calibration. Not doing a calibration will give MAF read variations, which the calibration irons out.