lynall's latest activity

Scania R cab heater matrix, flushed it multiple times, still crap heater, new matrix all fixed, I reckon all heater matrix with their inlet/outlet pipes at the top are a silt trap.

I have had exactly the same with 200 stats, quality ones are like rocking horse poo.

Air brakes use large amounts of air, most large truck compressors are 750cc capacity and they take some power to drive them.

Absolutely, but the point I was getting at is do they know any better? Who's telling them what they should and shouldn't be doing? Who are the good examples to follow? Ok you could argue that they should've all read the GLASS guidelines etc...

Been to plenty of pay & play days where I have not even bothered driving. By us they just put the motors in the deepest things they could find & winch all day. I’m sure none of these drivers could do a challenge event(punch hunt). & last a day.

As a sort of update I emailed the Glass Chairman who via the local rep, has passed the video and as much info as possible to the relevant authorities. What comes of it, if anything, I do not know.

Well you revving the engine which makes the heater blow hotter would suggest to me the stat is partially stuck open.

You need the standards number ie C3 etc.

I would be amazed if you cpuld get any air brake components small enough to fit.

You sure on stat?

Been thinking about them bolts. Maybe hammer a m10 or m12 nut over the bolt head, then weld nut to bolt head, gives you more meat to play with.

I've just got some alloy layered to fit flush in the hole on mine (and another with a border to cover the joint on the inside). When I get around to it I'm going to bond the whole lot in and be shot of it for good. (I have a non sunroof liner...

Yes I was wondering about that bung too.

I would grind the bolt heads off, remove the timing cover, strip that down and then remove the timing chest which could be fun! then you have full access to remains of the bolts, the worst three are normally the ones around the water gallery (top...

I would seal it up and be done with it. CT1 makes bloody good sealants.

Got the head off today, not experienced enough to tell if its OK or not, there is some cross hatching on 3 of the bores number 1 at front had oil as you can see in pics, rods seem to be ok .

Apologies, numbers back to front, **** eyes and the mobile do not work!

3 is feed from filter 1 is return

200 not used for a while or idling for a good while can white smoke like a bar steward until the stat has opened ie about 4/5 miles, so do not condemn the engine until you have given it a proper roadtest. Even if the 200 is totally shagged it...

Bent is bent, think the cams bearings are line bored with the cam caps fitted, so once head bent they are scrap. Be interesting to know what caused them to warp in the first place?

Well maybe the could have been straightened. They were so warped that the Cams rocked back and forward in the Journals. Tighten the cam lobes down and they jam the cams up.

^^ These cannot be stressed loudly or hard enough. On my 110 I have replaced as much with stainless as possible and everything is copper greased before refitting. I have just pulled apart a very rusty 110 to swap the station wagon body ono mine...