lynall's latest activity

Simp!

No. You are trying to get it removed cos you are an idiot :p. Can you post a link to the video? The great LZ collective can then decide. J

Pics would help, and maybe an idea of what you are after?

Don't think so, but could not find anyone prepared to do a swap for under £10k.

That is twice what my d3 is worth, not the 9k but the 5k! Is the 1/2 chassis galved?

That wont be cheap?

Mine is going in for welding today, and a half chassis

Just to update this topic for posterity in case anyone reads this in future with similar issues. After some heavy discussion with Bullevard, they finally agreed to test the full exhaust system by sending it to Roetfilter-Centrum who found that...

Pull the trigger and away you go, Parweld seem to make decent consumables and Super6 wire seems okay, though I am sure any wire will do the job just fine. I did find the wire feed rollers on the works welder had gone rusty the other week, I did...

I think you will find late td5 are worth more than early d3, though even td5 prices are dropping. Buying any old land rover is the cheap bit, running them is another matter.

I think all has been tried over the years, some were successful in the early days. Then they stroked the 2.7 to make it a 3.0, and guess what?

I do this with mine, but have to keep moving it from the spare bed when we have people over to stay 🤪

Do have block needs hone or rebore rods and crank As said above cheaper to buy s type, change belts and oil pump and all your discovery bits

Keep my welding rods on top of my boiler.

I wrap my mig wire reel in an old pillow cover, then cover the whole welder with an old duvet cover.

Check with @tyregeezer as he might have some bits/engines.

Before you use it check the wire roll as it might be rusty as hell.

Interesting, if anything our pump gear needs to go forward. I notice the 300tdi has bushes in the bracket hole the 200tdi has a fixed bracket. I bolted the pump to the timing case and left the bracket loose, tensioned the belt up and then did the...

I have tried three different timing cases and they all fit and measure up the same, injection pump gear is not quite in alignment, I can't see they all can be wrong. Injection pump is newly rebuilt but can't really see how it could be wrong...

The thinner the metal the harder it can be to weld, downside is the thicker it is the harder it is to form shapes. If you do not own a welder yet do some research first.

3mm will be way to thick though easier to weld, 2mm will do the job nicely, you just want plain old 2mm steel sheet offcuts, how it ended up at 2mm does not make any difference to what you need it for, harder to cut out rust and plate the hole...

Yes that is correct.

Filter then the cap. You line up the filter with the nipple in the bottom, then the cap clips on as you screw it in. Was that right?

Always worth a look, only need to remove rearmost undertray for access.

Is the pivot seized on the end of the cable gearbox end?

Did you fit oil filter first then the cap or clip the filter into the cap then fit as one unit?

Did you do the oil change yourself?

Think there is a floating bracket that goes into that slot that the two bolts screw into. Think pt no is 332121, cannot find any so may have to make your own.

I did have to push it until the CEL blinked on me hahaha, i had to take off my contraption of the EVRY mod that time. im now currently facing the issue when I fitted a VNT where it chokes at some point and then runs normally in a few seconds then...

Cancel the road tax asap.