Jai, there is no thread in a three way locker.
And I do not see much comparison between motor sport recovery and dragging a family car back out of a snow drift.
Context is everything.
Phill, google 'how does a three way locking carabiner work?'
You can buy oval (wide at both ends) carabiners. I have never had any danger whatsoever using a Big Dan as per photo above, (thinner neck at 1 end style on a sling eye / loop). In fact...
The 5 tonne carabiners are massive, ropes and sling eyes sit very well in them. We are talking pulling out of snow, not lifting with a crane right over buildings etc. Soft shackles also great, I agree.
Anyone got any snow chains? I have never had them on my Landy, but it would be good to have a set standing by in the barn.
Anyone have any recommendations? I have no idea.
Hi, no shackles. A lifting sling has a loop at each end and can be up to 10 meters long (if that is too short loop another one on). Put one loop on your ball hitch. Put the 5T carabiner on the other loop and clip it to the stuck cars tow eye if...
I use a 5 tonne, 3 way locking carabiner made by Big Dan on the stuck cars tow ring, and a 5 meter lifting sling (or several looped together) to my tow hitch. Sometimes if the stuck cars tow ring is buried, a 1 meter sling can go around a rear...
Thanks for the info Dag019.
Paddocks list chrome swivels at 227 quid. 250 for the Teflon. 300k miles is a fair way on one set without them chipping and leaking. And you have no swivel protection?
Boguing, Good tip, thanks it may come to...
Well, the acid did its job and dried, I wire brushed it all and ran over it with an air line, then slapped 2 coats of wet on wet primer, it's all kicking nicely.
I might not update this thread for a while because I am away for 3 weeks, a trip...
The weather has turned unexpectedly cold here, below the stated usable temperature stated on the primer data sheet. So I held back on priming today and spent it putting this in.
This all fully complies with the Bundesregierung building codes...
Thanks... and thanks for telling me what it is called :cool: When I took it off it seemed like the hole had been rattling around loose, and it was enough to allow a thick layer of corrosion to build up, but it was broken up and powdery like it...
Thanks for the tip! I only have a pallet truck which is great for sliding bits out from under, and some chain hoists, but there is a guy over the way who may have an engine hoist I could use through the door if all else fails.
Non related, but...
I also updated the wooden lower door support brackets. They are not in the Haynes manual. This one was probably a plank from the nearest pallet to hand 18 years ago, it is totally crap wood, and testament to the logevity you can get with a soak...
I delivered a trailer full of steel to Heinrich the Sandstrahler yesterday. Should be back at the end of the week, I can't wait to get some primer on, I am using 2 part epoxy primer and top coats. Once hard the axles and linkages will probably...
I made a jig to sink the hub in to so that I could get the brake disks off. No work of art but it is sure to stay in the workshop for a long time.
Bearings out...
More cleaning today too. Goodbye 33 years of goo and ick.
Also, another question.. sorry but I am off the map here.
The large bore in this bracket had a tonne of corrosion, but no bush, it looked like it may have had one and it disintegrated. Yay or nay?
..and yes, that is a bolt welded on.
Here it...
I can find rear suspension and swing arm weld on brackets so far, will keep looking for some front ones, but nothing so far.
Are swivels pinions supposed to be rounded over like this?
I am happy with the braking power of the drum brakes. If they are adjusted well and the shoes are in good nick they work fine. I lose traction before I get to full braking power, particularly when not loaded and the truck is light. I think this...
A few thing of interest on the suspension support brackets.
The swivel housing bolts were pretty tough to get out but they all did. Nothing snapped.
I then had a session with some chain blocks..
So, barring 1 or 2 items to be cleaned...
So, I brought out the big guns on the A frame ball joint. Ding ding, round 1 to me.
Then pushed out the bushed from radius arms. I got to over 10 tonnes on some of them.
Thanks all, back at it tomorrow.. I do have a RFBFH in reserve to attack the ball joint with. Thanks for the tip on the breather bolt, it did not look like yellow metal but I'll pretend it is.
The diff looks and feels ok, I will get a gauge on...
2 issues today..
The A frame ball joint needs replacing, and I can not get it off the axle. The boot is split. The 4 bolts that hold the plate to the axle are rusted round, if I could get it off and into a vise I would stand a fighting chance of...
I went inside the rear axle today.. drive flange off, no arguments or broken bolts, only smugness at my younger selfs obsession at using copper slip at every opportunity.
Not too bad in there. I scraped out the worst of it. I do not have a steam...
Rear axle is off.. next session is to disassemble the axles, clean and inspect the parts, and slosh out the axle housing. Has anyone here got a tried and trusted method for cleaning 35 years of gear oil out of it? I was thinking of draining the...
Thank you all for your replies.. good info! I will report back very soon once i have the axles disassembled.. I have never heard of removing the axle seal, or even that it is a 'thing'. Surely wrong lubricant for the stub axles?
When I first...
I will update this thread as the work progresses.. but a major reason for posting this thread is to learn from the hive mind here. I know Defenders are most of the time straight forward tractors, and although I have a reasonable mechanical...
Front axle is off..
Over next week I will start to strip it and assess the innards. Then it is off to the blasters.. I still have some black epoxy paint for both axles.