LR-hobbs's latest activity

Right I have had a breakthrough, took my door card off unplugged the connector sprayed contact cleaner, left it to dry Plugged it back in. Entered the EKA code the car opened and started first time, and now my key has resynchronized. So I...

Edit: There is also paint marks on the latch , typical of a breakers yard replacement.

I have just taken a look at the drivers door latch , now someone has definitely been in here before all the foam is taped up and ripped. The plug coming off the actuator is black but the connector is white? Has this been replaced with the wrong...

How do you get those disabled , is it a becm out job and have it sent away?

I think it's almost impossible to own this car without diagnostics. Otherwise they are un runnable

This type of fault is a first for me. But this is definitely a sync fault, not sure why my spare key now doesn't work either, we ended up with key code lock out error message.

We did try the key in the lock and managed to open the vehicle that got us the message engine disabled anytime we tried to start it , which provided one potential reason, the key was extremely spongy in the door lock and upon entering the EKA...

A method from a dealer if you have correct EKA

I would if I had a nano com, literally alls i have done is have a key battery changed. Does anyone have the correct key sync procedure?

1999 4.0 Thor

Hello everyone AGAIN I am currently stuck waiting for the RAC to arrive, as I went to have my key battery changed, once changed the car would not open attempted to resync the key nothing worked. Phoned home someone brought me the second key...

Maybe I worded that wrong, the temp needle gets up to the center of the gauge and stays there . Doesn't move at all

Ah so generally they won't run, I had fitted a new radiator, hoses and thermostat a few months ago , so the temp gauge doesn't move , it won't have even got up to temperature. I will get new relays to rule out any mistakes on my end...

Hello everyone Since I took ownership of my 1999 P38 my electric cooling fans have not once gone off even with air con or in stop start traffic. I've hooked up a separate supply off the battery to test if the fans work which both of them came...

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Just an update, the o rings were the problem I replaced them all ,left it in off-road height overnight with F44 fuse removed, hasn't dropped a millimeter. I must thank everyone for there help.

If it doesn't explode that's a win in my book.

I have a spare pressure switch that I have decided to fit out of precaution. I have depinned connectors before but does it matter which wire goes where?

I would say almost without a doubt that is my issue ,if not then it's a big part of it

Just found this, o ring must have got trapped and ripped Ive found one ripped and two more crushed.

That's sound like a plan , not to worry I asked it really nicely with a hammer and it's now off

Bollocks😭, and to make this even better , one of the threads on the air compressor mountings have stripped so now I can't get the compressor out.😅

Ah , I may have realised what I have done, when I did the o rings on one of the stem valves , it sprung out of its casing and I had to go looking for it. i presume a missing spring would allow air back through?

The o ring that is on the metal stem part does that go above or below that little lip in the metal , I may have put them in the wrong place.

I did replace those when I replaced all the valve block o rings. Maybe it's worth re doing them all.

no I did them one by one, so what ever I took off went back on to the one it came from. As far as I'm aware the solenoids are interchangeable, is the best bet to buy however many there is an just replace them all?

We fitted a set of Schrader valves on to the rear air bag lines that go into the valve block aired them up to 60psi and over the course of 1 hour , it hasn't dropped , which it would of before . Would the non return valves in the valve block...

I would say best bet it's make some air lines up, if it goes down after that then , I have no clue.

I had a quick look at the lines around the exhaust and nothing seems to be melted, might have to get the car in ramps as I've got next to no wiggle room. I also pulled fuse 44 and it dropped equally at the rear by 2 inches in less than an hour...

So the air line travel passenger side down towards the rear and across past the boot floor to the other air bag? If so the heat shield that sits Infront of the boot floor has rusted loose and is hanging on by a thread. And that's extremely...