Landlover99's latest activity

You're absolutely right, but this turd is in such a state that I don't want to be associated with it in its current condition. The chassis (new) and the bulkhead are actually fine, believe it or not. The biggest issues are purely cosmetic.

I've got the necessary stuff to do it myself. What I don't got is the time. When we are young, we give up our time for money. When we are old, we give up our money for increasingly precious time.

Hi all, Here's the 1989 110 Safari I bought recently. As you can see it's in a bit of a state, but has been booked in for a full valet at a cost of five hundred and fifty quid next month. It should polish up fine because I tried some compound out...

Yes, it would doubtless be a good idea to rebuild them. I did notice when I had the offside one's top off that the needle of the main jet was off-centre. I think they're supposed to automatically snap to the centre through some springs, but that...

Thanks. The alternatives had this method not worked would have been prohibitively expensive!

Phill, there's no reason a properly designed dizzy shouldn't be seated without drama by applying the necessary force to the cap itself. Caps should be manufactured robustly enough to tolerate the amount of force required to seat a dizzy quite...

The supplier (in the UK - won't mention the name) said: "It's not often we see this." :rolleyes:

It was tempting to try gluing it back together.:homer:

This is what happens when your dizzy shaft's o ring is seated in a groove too shallow. Or it's a poor quality cap. Who knows?

Could be stuck needle float valves. As others have said, they are simple and loads of stuff ont tinternet to help you strip and rebuild them. I doubt rebuild kits are too expensive, but replacement ones sure would be!! They are very easy to...

Remember which way the fuel pipes go. The link pipe between the carbs has a restriction for the return These carbs are simple as above needles or float stuck. Gentle tap with a bit of wood on the base sometimes frees them up

I just thought before I did anything drastic I'd better just try just one last thing. I popped the top off one of the carbs and momentarily inserted a cocktail stick into the main jet hole. It was bone dry, save for a tiny bit of petrol right at...

Yes, that would have saved me all sorts of time when I put the electronic ignition on it! I must get one of those; I was told you can get 'em off Ebay and I must have a look as a priority. You can't get anywhere near the solenoid on this model as...

That's fair comment indeed, Marjon. But when I made that assumption I was unaware there was a return pipe. I simply assumed (yeah, that word again) that for some reason, each carb had its own fuel feed.

I don't have anyone to operate the key so have to do the testing myself. All I know is, with the pipe on the left disconnected as shown in the photo (and I assume this is the pipe from the fuel pump via a filter) turning the key for a second or...

That's the problem with this type of carb. As you can see from the photo, the float chambers are the concentric (to the main jet) type and there's not enough clearance to remove them separately. I prefer the older design with the float mounted...

Thanks for the tips and suggestions, everyone. I've since checked out on the price of exchange units and they're obscenely expensive, so it's going to have to come down to a strip down and rebuild instead. Yes, their operation is certainly...

AI reckons they're type HIF6, so unless anyone knows better, I'll run with that for now. I need to look into the options, the two most likely being exchange recon units or DIY with a service kit.....

It's only been standing for two weeks. Whatever the problem is, it's affecting *both* carbs which is what made me initially suspect the fuel pump. But that's fine. So it's a real head-scratcher for sure. When I did the Easy Start test, I placed...

Hi all, I've encountered a problem with my 1989 V8 3.5 petrol engined Landy. It's like totally dead. No signs of life even though it's spinning like a top on the starter. It *will* run fine on Easy Start, though, so the ignition system's fine...

Yes, when an engine frustratingly tries to fire-up at the end of a cranking it's a pretty clear pointer to a battery issue. That's not the problem here, though as the motor spins like a top and continues to do so over many minutes of intermittent...

Phill, I believe it's the original distributor and amp from the look of it. Obviously it's had at least one new cap and leads in the last 36 years. This is the model with the amp on the side of the dizzy. I just put a new coil on it. Supposedly...

Failing electronics? Yes, certainly a strong possibility. But failing or already failed? I could rescue this - at least for now - by adding a single, simply MOSFET stage to the amplifier's output. If I choose a FET with enough gate capacitance...

Er, yes. Yes, I have. It pulled apart really easily. Typical of me not to think of that. Anyway, inside, it's just a connector and it doesn't join 3 wires together after all. It really only connects one to one. So hardly a "component" at all...

Thanks, all. I'll see if I can get them separated tomorrow......

Hmmm. I hadn't considered that, Kermit. So I could just solder those 3 wires together and have done with this weird and confusing 'fuse-holder type thing' arrangement.

It might well pull-apart and I'll give that a go tomorrow when I next have access to it. However, it still doesn't explain why it - if it is simply a connector as seems to be the case given the web link I found - there are two wires going in and...

I just took another look and noticed RIST'S embossed on the side of the 'fuseholder-looking thing' so Googled it and it turns out it's these...

Beats me too. Other wires: there are the two that come from the ignition amplifier that go to the coil (-) and (+) terminals. Those two are inside the corrugated sleeve which runs alongside the 'fuse-holder' (or whatever it is) in the photo. Plus...

The "other two"? I'm not sure why a fuse would have two wires in; one wire out to be honest. In any event, it doesn't come apart so far as I can tell. As for the condenser theory, I think you'll find they actually used an inductor for screening...