Recent content by julianf

Ive got a bent pipe one by my feet right now - looks harder to change the matrix on than the straight one. I think the change over was at around 1994 (at the 200 to 300 change)

I got so sick of trying to trouble shoot it on the vehicle that i got it all on the kitchen table! Id swap the broken plastic things for a raptor unit in the blink of an eye at any point into the future.

You have to take the front off the binnacle - screws on either end and the base. Then the gauges have a screw and u shaped clip thing that has to come off. Make sure you pay attention to the black wire with the eyelets on it, and replace it in the right position.

I read that they were all bad. I then changed the thermostat in the engine and the heat coming out of the duct holes is at the "hotness" where you can hold your hand under it, but any hotter, and you would not want to. As the OP notes, however, they're simple things - The curious point for me...

I've just got some alloy layered to fit flush in the hole on mine (and another with a border to cover the joint on the inside). When I get around to it I'm going to bond the whole lot in and be shot of it for good. (I have a non sunroof liner to add also though)

If they're in riv nuts, my money is on the riv nut spinning before the bolt remains come free. Before you spend a whole bunch of time on it, I would suggest making sure that your new fuel component mates up to the fuel lines perfectly still, as it's a possibility that you may have to mess...

I can't work out where you are. Clicking on your profile tells me I'm not worthy to know! I'm 250 miles from home currently. Who knows, you may be just (well, 50 miles I guess) down the road!

Id happily take it here. But my "here" and your "there" are probably miles apart. Id just chuck the in the boiler tank. It would dilute away to nothing. Edit : the boiler here is configured to run on 35sec fine. A riello 28sec may get upset I guess.

If it only runs when other stuff is off, could it be that the fan motor is trying to ground though somthing that is being pulled "high" when the other stuff is running? I would start by running a temporary ground from the heater, to a known good point, and seeing what happens.

I've got a pickup back that's too far gone to be salvageable. I was just going to scrap it - it's been offroaded and the dents have gone beyond dents and turned into tears... It's not even worth plating it. But the front end of it is ok, where the bulkhead is. How much difference is there...

I've got a bulkhead to do - Loads of the repair panels are now powdercoated for some reason. I want to get the bulkhead dipped when it's done, so want bare panels. I mailed YRM, who always used to claim that they made all the parts themselves, thinking I could just get one without...

I dont know the lt85, but, basically, you want to adjust the springs so as the "neutral" mid point is in line with 3rd and 4th, and not wobbling about all over the place. So, to then get it into gear in 3rd or 4th, it should be a simple / basic shift forwards or backwards from the place that...

I have a slickshift for the r380. I purchased it new as my partner complained about the sloppy gear change. I then adjusted the box without fitting it... And the slick shift is still in its box, never having been fitted. What im saying from the above is that all the devices do is compress the...

Im guessing its gearbox is the lt77 - they make one for them, i think.

Pressure washer. But then just your standard off the shelf gunwash / thinners. They (probably) won't touch the original paint but will the new stuff.