Recent content by jimllshiftit

Well the 10th digit of my vin is also an A but I don't have the CWK number plate.... maybe it was changed... Think I'll buy a heritage certificate and see what that shows up.

Just to add some subject to this thread, I read last night that there are two 1982 Y Reg One Tens known to exist. They are both pre production and they are both in the Dunsfold collection. Still interesting to know exactly when One Ten production began..... is mine pre production? Is it an...

Very much appreciated, both of you. Would anyone like Dunsfold for example be able to shed any more light on this? What would a Heritage certificate tell me that we haven't already worked out?

Should have mentioned that last night. I've tried vin decoders but they only seem to list the last six digits as a "serial number". The online decoders I've used don't seem to be any more specific than that. Can you find more information? My VIN is SALLDHMH7AA187686

Last year I picked up a more or less abandoned One Ten which I was going to use for spares but having looked it over at the weekend I'm now thinking of putting it on the road for a while..... The thing is though..... .......as far as I was aware the One Ten was launched at the 1983 Geneva...

Fabulous, thank you. I'll stick with the T wash process as you suggest and looking forward to reading Dags links before I start. Looking forward to getting going on it while the weather is being kind.

Saying this from only a basic understanding of metallurgy I have no doubt that muriatic acid would do a great job of etching steel or galvanized steel. Ive used it to remove rust and etch the inside of motorcycle petrol tanks and had decent results. However, I suspect it is very much a case of...

And so the plot thickens 🤣 Thats not the first time I've heard patio cleaner (muriatic acid) be suggested. Can T wash be used on old galvanized steel though? I've read that it should only be used new shiny galv. What about keying the surface? Should it be scuffed up before T wash?

Theres a galvanized chassis and bulkhead sitting outside my workshop at the moment waiting to be decorated with the components from my very rusty 90 but i keep reading and hearing conflicting information regarding how to prepare it for paint. Rather than relay the information ive received to...

Thanks for that. That's why I say I believe I'm devaluing the vehicle if I continue with my plan. Currently all three vehicles have their original chassis' and I think they should stay that way for the time being.

At risk of sounding like a traitor to the green oval marque I've been considering the future of my factory 200tdi Defender 90 SW and come to the conclusion that it should be sold to the US. It's LHD for one thing as it was originally in the Canary Islands and it's still on its original...

That's fantastic, thanks. Maybe I'll try mig. The reason I suggested FCAW is because I'll be doing it outside and I do run the risk of blowing my gas shield away with MIG. Maybe on a still day with a windbreak I'll get away with MIG. May I ask what mig wire you'd be running for 2mm steel...

Good evening everyone. My 92 200tdi Defender 90 hardtop has just failed its MOT for a rusty rear cross member. It's not all that bad and its encouraging that the rest of the chassis is actually pretty solid but I figured I'd make life easy on myself and just fit a new rear cross member. So...

Fantastic. For some reason i had it in my head that you had to call VOSA out show them the chopped up old chassis etc, but im ever over thinking stuff, so this is no different. Any idea what make that chassis is? Are there any manufacturers to avoid?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325982562764 thats the fella