Recent content by htr

Some photos to help: Should look like the 1st pic. But I've snapped off the holders as in the 2nd & 3rd pic - I want a good glue / adhesive to stick them on again. A replacement door card is a good idea but an auto dismantler is a 2 hour drive / 200+ km for me. That is a very kind offer G-...

I'm not glueing the actual rivet it's there molding on the door card which holds the rivet. When putting the door card back on you press the card firmly and those rivets go 'home' into their respective holes...

Sadly I've managed to break off the locator 'cups' on the rear door card. These are on the back of the card and hold the plastic pins in place - These pins then push into the plastic holders in the tail door itself. My questions are: What type of plastic is the Freelander's interior? OR What is...

I've done a driver's latch it wasn't too bad to do.

I've been looking at this as my own rear door was not co-operating. I initially looked at the micro switch in the actual door's handle. That was working when I tested it with my test meter. Noticed that one spring was broken - can we still buy these? Managed to get the door card off from...

That should seal up OK. Were those liners at different heights? - flush? Any below the lock face? Were you able to tell where the old gasket had failed?

Interesting - yes LR recommend 26PSI [ pressure depends on load ...] the tyre shop I frequent inflates to 32psi, [or more!] cold so they run at about 35psi 'hot'. I've noticed in the past that the centre of the tread wears more quickly at that pressure. So now I inflate to 28psi cold which is...

Welcome to the forum. You're right, Freelanders are fun to own, work on and drive. Most mechanical parts are readily available new of even from dismantlers. Front suspension: swapping out a complete strut is not to bad a job to do. Make sure the vehicle is supported... A 'goodish' socket set...

Hello, I've just been reading this. My O2 sensor is on the manifold. The 4 go into a '2' section, they become 1 just before the flexi bit which is in front of the CAT'. I thought the late ones had the CAT' on the manifold itself? The section in the upper part of that pic looks right.

On the Rimmer Bros site, for the diesels and the K series 1800: Gaiter Kit Front Drive Shaft Inner TDR100700 = genuine, P = aftermarket or P1 = OEM Gaiter Kit Front Drive Shaft Outer TD100750 = genuine, P = aftermarket or P1 = OEM Land Rover Direct also stock these

Tyres: Like Nodge said, new ones go on the rear wheels, all must be the same brand, same size and inflation. Coolant: The climate of southern NZ is similar to southern Europe. I drive a 1998 K series 1.8. I use a red OAT coolant mixed with distilled water. I use a 50% mix as we can have quite...

It was North of Balclutha a few Kms before the Central Otago turn off. I initially thought it was a V6. I didn't see and signs of injury - airbags had deployed...

Went for a drive and saw this on the side of the road - Late model Diesel FL1. Driver prob' went to sleep as it was at the end of a long straight. Left the road, climbed / straddled an earth bank and took out a concrete power pole which then landed on top of it.

Finally got round to fitting replacement drop-links. Got rid of that annoying clonking from the front end. Now have to deal with a knocking CVJ on the back end!

Four years ago I replaced the FLH driveshaft with a Britpart one. The CVJ boot/gaiter split so I organised to either fit a replacement boot OR replace the entire CVJ. Last week I tried to remove the outer CVJ but was unsuccessful. I left it for my mechanics to do. They couldn't remove it either...