Grrrrrr's latest activity

I thought I might struggle to get at the box lever with the clocks plugged in but it's possible I've discovered. Started her up, ac on and moved the lever one way then the other until I got cold air. Its towards the engine for cold. The missis...

I wouldn't touch Arnott 2. Had manufacturing issues recently. Arnott 3 are good but not worth the expense. Dunlops are best bet.

I’d ideally avoid them as well. I don’t plan on getting rid of the P38 until the government makes it illegal to drive them - I’ve invested far too much money and blood to pass it on. I’ll take a look at the Dunlops though. Hopefully they’ll last...

I might have a bag of them somewhere.

My local MOT guy will do a dummy MOT test for the standard fee. That way I can fix it before the real test & avoid fails or advisories.

GEMS has an additional cover plate, but I think the 1999 onwards it's part of the sump on Thor engine ? Not sure about diseasel though. The bell housing inspection plate should be enough to see the flex plate on all types ?

Works for me?

The latest gents Running like clockwork! A slight oil leak from a failed filter housing seal and another from the oil cooler. Otherwise good as new. Just a fan and transmission tunnel carpet to fit

Storey Wilson does some cheap software for the early models. Later ones are canbus and use his 4Dcan software. Trying to remember what he called the earlier software. Needs a laptop and cable though. I did have it on my laptop but the laptop...

There is the one at the bottom of the bell housing..🤔

There might be an access hole somewhere so you can poke an endoscope in to see the flex plate?

Phil is the guru on these boxes. Whatever he says.

I mentioned oil pressure and water pump for cooling. I don't know if it will be an issue but it is something I would keep an eye on in case it becomes an issue. I'm not a motor engineer, I am a tinkerer and I am well aware that these things are...

It may be running but is it making any air. If the piston seal is worn you will get very little pressure.

Tried that but access is a bar steward and the washers get in the way. This was easier.

Fixed slooby's old Rangie. Running nicely. Leak off on #2 and #3 were leaking everywhere, of course. Quick fix with sone spare pipe I had ready. Now what the hell do I do with it? MoT test, maybe?

Quiksteel didn't work. Close but plastic just deforms. Drill the RHS one and that was enough to wedge a punch in there and undo the bolt from the remains of the nut. Tried the same trick on the other side, rust dropping in my eyes, ears, hair...

The good news is that slooby's rangie runs. Other news on other thread!

By 0800hrs I had washed, waxed, and put resin on her. Also sprayed tyres, wing mirror housings, little bit of black on bumper. Even took the cloth with some spray and went into grooves of rubber seals. She be pretty. 😁🚘💖

Yesterday, I had chat with a collegue of mine about harnesses and how to replace them. She said, easy, if you have the old one, strip everything, see where it is routed, connect as specified. Take pictures and mark connections. Easy for her to...

Well I, for one, would like to hear how this experiment goes.

On a different forum someone explained the outcome, because they knew someone who did something like this, and they said it was fine, just less acceleration.

The glove box can be a right pain in the arris to get open and working properly :(

All done. Bought some M5 x 25mm bolts from Wickes this morning and it went in first time. Bracket lines up properly and all. Shame it was a 50 pack - anybody need 49 spare bolts? 😆 Pressure tested to 15 psi for about 10 mins, and no leaks...

Hot start fix should bring the glow plugs on every time.

If it's not loss of sync, then it could be FIP timing. When the modulation was over 80% on my project car, it was almost impossible to start it when hot.

went over one of those awful yellow and black (or is it black and yellow!?) rubber speed bumps... no clunk/rattle 😣

Pop into a shop, buy a bottle of cold water and pour it over the top of fuel injection pump. Over heat sensor just under cover and can stop it firing when too hot. water trick can cool it down enough to make it fire up

Could be loss of sync from RF interference?

Have I not done enough damage already 🤔 Is the AC clutch engaging ?