Well, the mystery deepens.
Went out, re-enabled the immobiliser, wrote settings, cleared RF memory (again), shut down. Went out, pressed the lock button to lock ... and the bloody thing locked. Pressed unlock and it unlocked! No syncing...
Took the wheel off this evening and undid the caliper. Didn't look too bad but pads were worn through.
Swapped pads for some old ones cadged off MrGorsky. Strangely I had new front ones in stock but no rear ones; clearly I was planning on...
Operated for short periods and stopped for many years :(.
I removed the central crankshaft bolt to extract the chain sprocket, which I will replace. For the closing I stick to RAVE (100nm + 60°+60°+30° ☠️). As you say, the oil pump is driven by a...
All doors unlocked I've got
Right cdl ground
Left cdl ground
Right key switch 12v
Left key switch 12v.
Door locked with key I've got
All the same except right cdl goes to 12v but returns to ground when key returned to the central position.
Hope...
Key switch should toggle 0v-12v when turning the key, i.e. 12V with key in centre, and ground when you turn the key. CDL should be 12V when door is locked (switch open), and Ground when door is unlocked.
This way the BECM knows if you are...
What caused that, I wonder?
Has anyone touched the crankshaft bolt on the front of the engine? That has to be done up 'kin tight or the oil pump won't be driven.
Hi, I recently brought home a 1995 P38 2.5 diesel, taken from an old gentleman in my town for little money. The car had engine problems, arrived home by truck. A picture of the negotiation, concluded at €1000 (approximately £830).
I immediately...
Hi all,
Having put the engine back together, neither keys will sync. Earlier today I got the Nonocom out and had a play. Tried clearing RF memory - nothing. I even tried triggering the locks with the Nanocom rather than using the key ion the...
So did I once, an LS400 they were cheap but, in the last couple of years prices have gone silly and, I was put off with it having a cam belt instead of a timing chain.
Even though the connectors on the fuse box all looked good, I'm wondering if i should give each connector a spray with contact cleaner and refit?
I'm betting it doesn't take much for diagnostics to decide it sometimes can't communicate..
Almost all torque settings are in RAVE and there are generic ones in there to cover anything they miss. Sometimes it puts a value in the section text but sometimes you have to check the section at the start.
Been doing other jobs distracting me from the car (that I was dreading) but here's the update.
Milliput failed due to frosty weather not letting it set and lack of plusgas (for fear it would stop the Milliput sticking) so the Milliput popped off...
Neither of my keys will sync now. Central locking works though. All very strange. Might be the central microswitch, I guess. I'll have a play with the Nonocom when I get a spare moment.
It's probably mineral wool based as that's good for sound and heat insulation. Many eu/uk car manufacturers were phasing out asbestos in early 90s. From what I've read.