Francesco M.'s latest activity

Temperature is OK, 95 is optimum.

Hello everyone, unfortunately I have been very busy lately and have dedicated less time to the Rangie, the work has dragged on but I am moving forward. I have tackled the tedious task of replacing the ball joints along with the two steering rods...

don't worry about the stains, just check that it is flat. This is the base of my 2.5 dt when I closed it, it has stains but it was perfectly flat and does not leak

Update: got some petrol and gave it a good scrubbing, but still looking a bit stained. Might have to pick up some scotchbrite pads. Image:

Don't worry about the staining, as long as it's not raised or dented but flat and checked with a straight edge to be found good you can rebuild it. 👍 If you start scrubbing and remove any metal at all you'll run the risk of a burn through or...

the remote station installed gives power to the motor that opens and closes, then the cdl does the rest. so as you say, it makes the becm believe that someone is inside and blocks the lock... if you have the immobilizer active it is a...

The locking works because triggering the button microswitch (i.e. CDL switch) makes the BECM thinks you're inside the car & want all the doors to lock. Conversely when unlocking using the button, the mod makes the BECM think you want to unlock...

The country setting does lots of things. In the USA, for security reasons, on many cars only the drivers door unlocks on a single FOB press, not sure if that applies to the P38 as I have never tried it but worth a look.

this is true, microswitches must always be in good condition. I opened, cleaned, lubricated and closed the locks with a thin layer of waterproof grease along the gasket, I hope it helps keep away humidity which is the worst enemy of microswitches...

you're right, I can't find it now, I followed the one from the Work on P38 channel, but I'll put this one from CLT Rovers which follows the same method.with immobilizer active it can cause problems as the guy wrote in description. I deactivated...

And a link to the YouTube video would be good

Now that might be a very useful post if Huf stop supplying replacement keys and Les from Classic Rides North Wales pops his clogs.

I tried in two electronics stores but they seem to be impossible to find, I didn't want to wait 15 days from aliexpress so I opened the broken multimeter and recycled it

Any Zebra strip, loads on AliExpress, just need the correct dimensions but you cannot buy just one. I'm planning on buying 10 soon.

Check the Pollen filter covers as said, if the foam has gone flat or has broken up it will let water into the filters and leak down through the heater motor. Pour the water on the front windshield and pull the filters out afterwards. If they are...

AN stands for army navy. Its a very universal usage fitting style developed by the americans in like 1930 i think to be field serviceable, reusable and not need any special tools to assemble. Most of the stuff is rated upto 1000psi and 260 deg...

So this whole story started with my engine oil cooler lines starting to weep oil where the rubber joins to the steel hoses. I had some AN8 bungs welded onto my engine and gearbox oil coolers and fitting some very nice looking lines. Then it kinda...

any zebra stripe is fine but it must have the right height. the one he had was long and high, I cut it with a long cutter blade, with a single stroke like a guillotine, if I remember correctly I found the right setting with 7mm of height.

For the zebra strip, I was thinking to myself this morning... can you use any zebra strip🤔 but then you have done🤔👍

Hi everyone, I still have to unlock the brake calipers, change discs and pads and bleed, but since I have little time these days and the weather is bad, I took advantage to do some light work. On the advice of user @RobertZ , I checked the FIP...

I used an Ezibleed kit with the spare wheel when I changed the modulator. I ended up pushing 3 litres of brake fluid through its bleed nipple before bubbles stopped coming out. After that I just bled as per RAVE.

Nice work.

Hello everyone! I'll update you a bit with my work, I opened the actuator to clean the sludge from the coil and the tracks, I cut the 7 contacts. There was dirt between the coil and the stator that rotates with the actuator pin and the movement...

A fructibus cognoscitur arbor

at post #124 Wammers says: "Nanocom info does say later ECU versions had trimmable values. Maybe the early ones don't need the numbers. But not entirely sure. As said the 97 one didn't have them but I loaded them. But it was a bit of a mishmash...

Hi Grrr! it's true yours is also one of the first but I remember reading that apart from updated electronics, you have a BeCM V36 or 37, so you will also have a more recent ECM than mine. There's a post talking about this, if I find it I'll post it

I'd leave that setting at 128 rpm. Adjust idle on pump top to 750 rpm. Lift sensor rpm will follow crank. You'll see them diverge as you accelerate or drop off the throttle. White smoke sounds like too much diesel going through. Air temp will...

Mine's an early one. Sure I put the values in a post somewhere and possibly an EDC trace from the Nanocom if he wants to compare the values. Might have called it something like EDCfuelling.xlsb Mine's Late EDC in the settings but as far as I...

In theory you can apply more force, in practice you can apply more swearing 😂

I cleaned the injectors but the dirt was less noticeable than on the FIP. Due to the lack of numbers in the first models, after many unsuccessful attempts to write them, I read it in a post, I don't remember if it was an old Wammers post or on...