you dont need to have it running just cranking for a leak off test, there are plenty of utube videos on how todo it plus a leak off kit on fliebay is about £35
i need to triple check with the mechanic, but he said that the fuel pressure sensor was throwing up a code (this was all in French and I’m still learning so didn’t get all the info)
Thanks for this, yeah, so the fuel pressure sensor on the fuel rail was giving a code along with the immobiliser, so I think that’s my next step, get one ordered. I’ve tested the filter and all good.
If its cranking over, there's only a couple of things it can be.
It's briefly firing on cold start being sprayed it, means no fuel.
Immobiliser has been bypassed and it's cranking so not likely ews at this point.
This pretty much leaves fuel...
Yes so the diag found 2 things , 1 that the immobiliser wasn’t working properly, and 2 that the fuel pressure wasn’t right, he said that I should deal with the IMMOBILISER first and then move to the pressure sensor on the fuel rail, just checking...
Well, we’ve tried so many things, then with a diag mechanic coming out he narrowed it down to either the fuel pressure sensor or the immobiliser , but suggested crossing off the immobilisation first.
Okkk. Back again, just been over to fit the ÉCU, aaand nothing. But with the ECU was a note from the company that deactivated the immobiliser which said “if the car won’t start, bypass the immobiliser relay” … now looking online I can see that my...
Hey all, so update from the frontline... The ECU is with the specialist, having the immobiliser delete done today and should get it back Monday/tuesday... fingers crossed!!!
I'm seriously considering that, if i do will likely get a clifford alarm with remote start fitted. Got one on my Niva and it's a god send in the winter here.
Without a code reader that can read live values now I'm not sure what more to suggest.
My first suspicion at this point is the immobiliser is telling the ecu not to inject fuel but why exactly I don't know now. There's too many variables to just...
Should still make a motoring whirring noise even if the lock hasn't engaged.
If its not making the noise, chances are it's the steering column that has failed and it's that which is stopping the car starting. Sounds odd but it is part of the...
Interesting, but then I would need to reprogram the ECU to the car ? Would it not be easier to just reprogram the key? … also weirdly the steering wheel lock doesn’t seem to ever be on… can turn it whether car is on or off etc
If you're happy ith spanners, a replacement ecu with immobiliser disabled is £180, unplug the steering lock with ignition on, join 2 wires on the immobiliser and remove a solenoid on the ignition barrel. All can be done in 30 minutes. This...
That only resyncs central locking side of the fob as well. The chip read by the immobiliser is a magnetic chip in the key, no battery power, it works or it doesn't. A diagnostics machine is needed to code it.
I thought I'd quickly try something for you. Went out to the car, tried the dead key which was still in the glove box, checked error codes on the ecu, P1602
When I had issues with my keys, the car would crank but not fire up. The immobiliser just tells the ecu not to inject fuel. The ignition switch still does the starter crank.