Recent content by classic kev

Hello Jai! Wow that photo brings back memories, that was an epic trip! That must have been 15 years ago, if not more - that's a worrying thought. Anyway, needless to say I'm still here. I don't go out and about, unless I have to but still handy with me Landy! Although these days I've gone soft...

To alter CO trim, just remove the sealing plug then use the appropriately sized allen key to adjust. For various inputs etc, do a search in "Engines, it's a V8 mate" and you'll find lots of info, you might have to think about the search terms though. OK, if you go to the V8 section as suggested...

To check ignition timing you need a timing light. Remove the idle air bypass pipe and check it carefully - they perish and split. I also assume yu are happy the stepper motor is sealed against the plenum? The gasket, if original likely fell to bits, I found a smear of RTV silicon was effective...

Check ignition timing and vac advance. What is the base voltage on the throttle pot?

Bogs when giving it gas........ check vac advance is working, check throttle pot for base voltage, resistance and scaling. Might be worth checking ignition timing while you're at it, I found a bit of extra advance worked well. BTW best diagnostics for 14CUX is understand what it's trying to do...

Interesting. Not sure if this was resolved but FWIW. As Discool and Norseman suggest this is odd. I agree, priming the oil pump should be easy. I did have one incident where I couldn't get the pump to prime, I tried the drill method, didn't work, I removed the sump and checked the pickup, no...

If you want to use Castrol that's entirely up to you. The bottom line is any synthetic GL-5 75W90 gear oil will be fine so shop around. BTW if you're going to do an oil change on the front diff, you might as well do the rear at the same time.

Have you actually been provided with the fault codes? D3's can be a mare, limp mode can be caused by so many things - sticky egr valve, failing instrument cluster, iffy map sensor, failing turbo and any one of multiple other suspects. Fuel system is not a bad shout but you need good diagnostics...

Have had a breeze through this thread - interesting. Driving in to water is not something to do without thinking it through and should never be done at speed. 2ft of water should not really be a challenge for a D4, I believe they have a wading depth of 3ft and if you're careful you might go a...

To be fair, I don't think there is anything regarding how the hotwire injection and ignition systems work that hasn't been covered in the V8 section, it is really just a case of deciding which search terms to use, there is lots of detail regarding checks and tests to get the old V8's running...

Have you tried a search in the V8 section? depending on what you search for will yield different results. https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/3-9-efi-no-fuel-wont-start-tested-injectors-right-bank-8-ohms.391395/...

If I have understood what you're saying, you have a spark at the plugs but no fuel at the injectors. The injectors are on a switched ground, the ECU does this. Check the EFI loom grounds. The injection pulse is sent to the ECU from the negative side of the coil. If the wire is broken or...

Like Discool says, not much to it really. If you can trace the loom back a bit from the tank, from what I remember the Range Rover loom had a connector behind the rear left wheel, might be worth checking to see if there is a corroded plug.

If it does, then first thing to check is the main efi power relay and the fuel pump relay, assuming they both work, check the distributor. Basic checks may have been done, but not clear if anyone has considered the ignition amplifier - trust me they can just stop working; happened to me once...

What to do next? STOP. looks like you have a GEMS engine, it is very similar to the older Lucas hotwire system, on that basis I would: 1: do wet and dry compression test. 2: check for inlet leaks. 3: check/set throttle pot base voltage. 4: The ignition is, I believe ecu controlled so you...