border's latest activity

Went ahead with the seal and gasket I have, Thought it would have slid straight on in the housing but no way so Improvised with the Land Rover special tool and plastic protector you get with the Dowty seals, with one of the tubs you get curry...

Thanks Mate, I have already looked at that, think it will go over the journal on crankshaft ok but have not got the special tools to drive it right down in the housing.

Might have to wait and order another, Knocked it in tonight went in quite easy but left it flush, now that I have looked at more vids when I got back I think it should be tapped in all the way down. Probably settled where it is now, when I try...

I don't have the special tool either and have just carefully tapped around the seal to seat it' I do second @miktdish above re the seal, those brown ones fit easy enough but do not last in this situation and many have started to leak in a few...

Thanks Again. Cant get better seal untill next week, so just gonna use what I have got, bloody sick of getting held up waiting for parts to get delivered. Will have a go anyway then if it goes bad will have to order. . The seal I have is...

Thanks Been watching a few vids , and guides seems people have there different ways, on this vid he puts sealer around the outside of seal in the housing, few others do it to. Gonna try my local landy shop hoping they have a better seal and...

I would fit an OEM/JLR part rather than the £5 version. I have know a few people that have developed a leak after a couple of years (some sooner) whereas originals tend to last for a lot longer...

Engine off stand and on bench now so Think I will fit flywheel and seal first jut to be safe, , been dreading this as Manual does not really say much about it and cant find much on google etc. I do have the seal and gasket, think it is just the...

There's no science here, just sticking two things together. Use a good bead but not enough that it enters the sump, torque the fixings up appropriately and that's it.

Thanks Did you do them both at once , I done the ladder frame first tonight to let it dry overnight then will do the sump tomorrow.

Ready to fit ladder frame and sump soon, gonna use this stuff https://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/products/elring-dirko-sealant-sealing-compound Want to get it done first try if I can. Any hints or tips ?

That's how I did it on my rebuild and it runs great. Flywheel has a locating dowel so providing your crank is aligned properly the flywheel peg will fit. I guess using the flywheel pin would be slightly more accurate than the mark, but the teeth...

So just set timing marks as normal and fit belt ?

Thanks left it as it is for now in last pic. think I better take the bloody thing back off just to be safe.

What Marjon means is with the rockers fitted and no cambelt, if/when you rotate the engine to line up the timing marks any open valves could make contact with the pistons. So safest to remove rocker gear then fit belt etc. This why when engine...

If it is in the state of your last pic then you are fine. But rocker arms and shaft means valves are open to me. J

Not sure what you mean, watched a couple of vids on youtube and copied what they done,

Need flywheel for timing pin.

Sealer has not come yet for sump so fitted head with new bolts, went by the book first torque 40nm then 2 60 degree turns, hope Ive done it right. Also fitted rocker arm and push rods etc. Can the timing belt be fitted now ? or do I need the...

Bit farther forward, bearings and crank fitted, Head back from machine shop pressure tested and skimmed, bores honed with new rings, timing case and pump back on. Just waiting on sealer for ladder frame and sump also head gasket kit. Not sure...

I would do the torque in stages and if crank won’t turn at say 70Nm then got a problem, you can reuse the bolts if in good condition as they’re not designed to yield at that torque

Sorry Mate I forgot you posted that I have downloaded the 200tdi one. Found the torque it is 130 to 136 nm, worried now that the bloody bolts may snap or stretch, as I will be doing it twice, once to plastigauge then again to finally fit.

Does anyone know the Torque for main bearing caps ?, cant find it in book

If your journals are correct size I would not bother with plastigauge, if the crank and new bearings cleaned properly, in place, bearings oiled and caps torqued up one at a time you will see if any tight ones, if a problem then plastigauge may...

Might have been wrong with clearances before to use plastiguge still not sure what colour / size to get .Think The acceptable clearance range is approximately 0.025 mm to 0.075 mm (0.001 to 0.003 inches).

Sending that micrometre back its useless, Borrowed this off a Mate today still a bit fiddley , well to me anyway but think I have got it right this time, first pic Main second Big End

Plastic Gaige is hard to get it seems can get some off ebay but wont be delivered until end of next which will hold me up Again. Not sure which one to get as the colours come in different size measurements , The clearance in haynes manual is...

I put the btm fixed anvil on the btm diameter and then gently rock the adjustable anvil over the top diameter starting off a tad too big and tightening it a tad each time with the top knob until it drags slightly, then you know you got the two...

Plastigauge should tell you all you need to know. If crank is std and shells say std then I would say it should be okay, but still needs checking, rest you can billy b**** your way through but crank is quite important.

I agree that it is technique and practice to get the reading correct. If it won't hold tolerance on multiple readings (a different result each time) then I would say it is the user. I (used to before getting sick) use a micrometer to measure...