blue_cheese's latest activity

That's your basic 5/16th UNC bolt sir.... https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/parts/index/part/id/9.55824.56311.60970/brand/land-rover/ Island 4x4 do them for £3 https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=602236

Afternoon folks, it's been a busy week so not been able to spend much time on the car. Does anyone have a link to where I can buy the bolts for the valley gasket seal clamp? I've tried each bolt that I thought was it, but none of them seem to...

Do you think I can remember where I put the valley gasket clamp bolts? Not a chance. It feels like nothing fits. Also, is the correct order (from top to bottom) clamp, seal, gasket? My RAVE manual seems to skip straight from rocker cover to...

Afternoon folks, been fitting the exhaust manifolds today. All but one went in without issue - the one by the steering shaft may have gone it at a slight angle, so I'll need to take it out and check I haven't buggered the threads. Another...

Good news, both heads are on and have been torqued down to ARP spec (although that doesn't feel very tight!) Next step is the exhaust manifolds, I made a start on them but the new gasket slipped between the heat shield and the engine block, so I...

They'll be pushing against the valve springs. I put mine in with the valve bridge unbolted and then bolted the bridge down (using the sequence in RAVE). As you tighten the bolts down, the valves will open on those valves that are being acted...

Been away all week so only getting back to it this morning. ARP studs have gone in nicely, but I can't for the life of me get the pushrods back in their place. They came out so easily, but now some of them are being impossible to replace. Is...

+1 ^^^^^^ If the scratches are close to the dowel, I wouldn't worry about them.

I wouldn't worry too much. The most important bit is sealing around the fire rings, water and oil channels. In that order

Yes they can definitely be felt with my nail. It's a bunch of small scratches around the dowel hole. I would get some pictures, but the head is finally in place. I suppose I'll have to take it off anyway

Right folks, I may have buggered this up. I was installing the driver side head, but couldn't get it to sit right on the two small dowels in the block. I moved it the head around to try and get it to slip on, but it didn't. I took the head off...

I don't. But I'd go with what the manufacturer recommends.... Is this the right instruction sheet for your kit? I think it is. https://tech.arp-bolts.com/instructions/157-4301.pdf You can convert freedom units to proper money here...

Yeah just follow the ARP instructions. Let it rest between torque stages too. The time you take to finish a beer is a good amount of rest time.

Heads are on, just need to tighten them down now. Does anyone know the torque spec for ARP studs? I'm seeing a few different answers online

Update: got some petrol and gave it a good scrubbing, but still looking a bit stained. Might have to pick up some scotchbrite pads. Image:

Folks, how perfect does the block surface need to be? I've gone over it a few times with a plastic scraper and some degreaser, but there are some baked-on bits (mostly around the thread holes) that aren't shifting with my own power. Please see...

Heads are back today. Cleaned up nicely, threads helicoiled, and broken exhaust bolts removed. Before the heads go back on -do any of you use additional gasket/sealant in any places on the heads? Thanks

Wipe out any fluids first, and then vacuum all the loose debris, especially around the piston rings. Check all the core plugs for rust & signs of leaks.

Just try and get as much of the crap out of the cylinders as you can. Obviously all the threads in the block. You can also flush the coolant passages with a hose pipe just to get some of the loose debris out.

Heads went to the shop this morning, surfaces were nice and flat but I've left them there so they can have all mating surfaces cleaned up, and those broken exhaust manifold bolts removed. In the meantime, I'll prep and clean the block. Aside...

Thanks for your recommendations. I live in South Wales, so I fear all of the well-known shops on this forum will be out of my reach! I've been out this morning to take some close up pictures. Got both sides of each gasket, a closer look at each...

Thanks again all, your input is greatly appreciated. I'll get some better pictures in the morning, and I'll have a close look at no 8 to see if it's a crack.

Thanks for your opinions, I'm relieved to hear that. If there's any additional photos I can provide, please let me know. At this point, I have to reassemble either way. I'll take the heads to the machine shop on Monday and see what the tech...

My engine (4.0 GEMS) was rebuilt by V8 Developments. Top hats, and kept same capacity as before. All major components reused - engine had done about 90k miles. Superb job and runs like a Swiss watch. Total cost about £6k. I like the way they...

Pictures attached below. I've only had it a month, got it cheap from a no-reserve auction so I knew the risks. Has about 85k miles

Morning, Good news is that the heads are off. Bad news - the gaskets look like they're in pretty good nick to me. I was praying for an obvious blown gasket, but it seems that's not the case.

Gasket looked in good nick on the passenger side. I'm hoping to see a damaged one on the driver's side, otherwise I'll be in trouble...

Right you were. Snapped one of my sock size adapters last night. But the good news is I've got the passenger side head off, after much swearing and knuckle scraping. Now it's just the much harder driver side left. I've taken the wheel arch out...

You are learning some lesson here young jedi🙌

On the basis that you already have socket wrench, etc. get a set of imperial sockets like these from halfords...