Theres a reason for that, mainly driving around on the road with occasional off road (fields/farm land) type activities you don't need such a strong spring set that transfers to much (pulsating) energy into what is a complex gearbox.
You also...
I have done it and involves time and a birds nest mess of wires which will most likely involve manufacturing more problems.
Your symptoms, except temp gauge, was the ignition switch when we had the problem. They are cheap but you need to buy the...
Tickover is pretty low if I remember correctly.
I would get it all running and driving nicely before considering changing the distributor, never found points a problem.
Did a bit of welding on Saturday, did some more on Sunday. Guess what I did today? Yes that's right I did a bit more welding!
Atleast I have finished that bit now, just have to do the next bit and by the time I have done that I am sure another...
Ignition switch maybe and dash instrument earth. Obviously it's something you have touched so check your work.
Hard to know what previous owners have done during an engine conversion.
They can't prove otherwise just like you. If they are Land Rover stamped then I would class them as factory option. Get a sale brochure for that year to prove they were factory fitted options.
It will be the cheapest of Chinese tat which will be barely capable of switching a relay.
I have one of them Mudstuff things, took it off as it restricted the view of the passenger front corner.
Whatever product you use there is no point in spraying it on the rust, you have to deal with that first.
Firstly it's vital you clean the inside of the chassis, then some sort of rust converter followed by a generous coat of cavity wax. Then you...
Why don't you cut out a cardboard template and trial fit it in various places.
I think I would find a suitable cubby box and fit it to the front, or even make your own cubby box.
You can get the instrument panel out with the steering wheel and bezels on, well mine you can and also my son's.
Should mention there is evidence to suggest both of ours have rubbed slightly at sometime in their life.
Steering wheel isn't really...
I don't know why you presume a noisy pump is faulty, mines been noisy for 4 years.. My son's has always been quiet and was still quiet when it stopped working
I wouldn't be presuming it's the injectors without diagnostics, seems like an expensive guess to me.
With regards to fuel pump are you fitting cheap ones or VDO ones?
A duff starter will affect the cps and make it hard to start, once stared it...
Camshaft front cover/grommet/seal on front of head.
Rocker cover gasket.
Fuel pressure regulator
Power steering pump.
Clean it all off with brake cleaner and start from the top down.
Two different rocker cover gaskets depending on the year.