Many thanks for the quick reply, I will try and get on it this evening.
Should I presume it's genuine Land Rover or VDO pump only or is there a cheaper option which has proved reliable?
You'll have to see if the pump gets power and if it does means it's dead which is the most likely scenario, first check in C0376/0390(attached) from here the circuit goes to the pump... if no power we'll speak then but if you have power prepare a...
Son broke down in his D2 TD5 just now, rescued him in the tdi.
The fuel pump isn't running, had a quick roadside check of the fuse, swapped a relay, pressed the fuel cut off button. None of these made any difference so towed it back with the...
Many apologies it has been amiss of me not to introduce myself sooner so here goes.
I am the very proud and chuffed owner of Lola the Landy who brings a brilliant smile to my face every time I drive. Over the years I've owned a long list of old...
That's different to the one I did last week on the Ninety. The key barrel end section was plastic along with the operating arm and plastic washers.
The screw was a self tapping screw since it was going into plastic.
Do you mean the little screw that goes through the plastic operating arm, through the housing and into the plastic key barrel extension?
If so then no I don't know what suze it is, I would just find a screw in my random screw collection.
Having the springs fitted correctly makes a big difference to whether the brakes work well or not.
When my son bought his Ninety they were fitted incorrectly.
I'm not sure I have read about the tension being incorrect before.
My tensioner was a bit weird in the fact it would only have play in it when the pulley wheel was in a certain position. It basically felt fine unless you turned the pulley a...
If you use the 2 piece shaft the ujs are 2 diffent lengths. And you have to put on in correct place otherwise feels like the steering catches.
Later style both ujs same length.
Take the fan off, take the belt off, check all bearings, pulley and belt tensioner and go from there.
If nothing is wrong then fit a new belt of a decent make.
Beat me to it ^
The ujs are separate, the section between isn't cheap so reuse if possible. On the later defender they changed to a longer 1 piece section.
I am not 100% if you can change to the later shaft or not or even if its of any benefit.
Edit. I didn't...
There were some genuine ones on Ebay last week for less than £20, might still be there. If I remember correctly there are different top and bottom.
I would try and salvage the centre column section.
We fitted Bearmach oem 9 years ago and are OK...
As you don't know when it was serviced last. make a list of fluids to change along with the usual suspects of engine oil, coolant, trans and diff oils do the brake/clutch and steering fluids too ...
Before messing with the steering box do as @Dippypud notes above. Those steering shaft UJ's look rough and it is likely other joints in the system not good. Also check that steering rods are straight and not binding with anything.
From Your pic...
Seriously you need to change the column ujs, don't buy the very cheapest though. When you fit them grease them up and a drop of oil every now and again.
It's almost impossible to turn the steering on a modern car with the engine off.