Hi,
Don’t forget to purge the water separator.
For the connector is goes there :
You need to slide the metal clip between the fuel filter houssing and the fuel filter.
I only see half of the metal clip, certainly broken look for that part...
These cars are not well serviced, the propshaft should be checked, universal joint can have play, VCU bearing can have the rubber part split. The front diff support can have the rubber part split …
Front Whishbones rust, there is one small hole...
Smoke is not normal …
Check the boost pipes, the one that you put in picture, sometimes it is split, check the full surface of the boost pipes with your hands to spot any hole or split. Boost can spot the EML light.
If you buy from a professional dealer you can go back.
If not you can’t do anything, the car has 20 years … certainly not well serviced at all.
Boost pipes can split a picture is beater,
Also normaly when you buy the car, the car should pass...
For how long do you have the car ? The MIL was certainly on for a long time. I don’t think the value is the wrong.
Do you have a picture of your engine sometimes it can help to spot some issues.
Hi,
In your case a basic scanner is useless, you need live data from the low presure pump. Same for the HP pump. Also having the values at idle is better than a random rpm.
Also your basic reader say the mil is on for almost 32 000 km...
Hi,
You have bubbles in the coolant, when the engine is hot but no when it’s cold ? You have done a CO2 test with a cold engine and you have nothing ?
Oil cooler ? More certainly a cooled EGR but only on FL2 not on FL1.
Someone has exactly the same problem as you :
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/freelander-1-td4-eml-with-exclamation-mark-appear-5-seconds-when-full-throthle.397000/
Hi,
For the temp sensor, open your eyes look next to yellow oil gauge, there is a connector just next to it. The engine works perfectly without it.
For fuel sensor, on your diag device you should have live data for the fuel presure first the...
So if not a 4x4 anymore, you still have the inconvenients :
- FL1 comes with a low gear ratio so you need more fuel to move it ...
- The rear drive train need still to be serviced, diff need oil, it can leak ... and 2 rear drive shaft ...
- The...
Anyone can become a professionel dealer, they sometimes fix wires under the seat with duck tape …
In our case they certainly removed the propshaft themself to fix the car before selling it.
Hi,
A professional should sell you a complete car ! No propshaft is already a problem, maybe there is others, once you buy, the seller will not answer any calls from you.
Are you realy expecting a warranty for a 20 years old cars … ?
Hi,
Personnaly I don’t buy that sort of cars, they goes from owner to owner. Each buyer think he can fix it, and finaly sell it with more issues.
Good luck
You should check all of this, you don’t want to break the belt again, all the pulleys should be checked including the tensionner.
Full kit, depending on the quality you could have some issues …
Hi,
2 options, only fix what has broken with the belt, with luck only some valves are bent.
You do a full engine repair …
For the belt you should look at the condition of the pulley and tensioner. Certainly not changed with the belt ?
Regards
Hi
If the clutch has done 110 000 miles … better to replace it with the slave cylinder.
For the bleeding, get someone experienced with you to do the job. So you know the bleeding was done correctly, and if it’s no better you are good for a...