Maybe this is more appropriate...
https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/mercedes-benz/sl-350/listing/5295505905
or maybe this...
https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/jaguar/xkr/listing/5389554474
Perfect cars for road trips now the kids...
It looks like the paint might be a bit faded and maybe even need a respray. Otherwise it looks decent enough.
Mid Life crisis little red sports car?
Aren't you a bit old for that? :vb-good:
Yip, they look pretty bad. I had to patch up a hole in my wheel arch behind the arch liner. Mud and dirt gather then stay wet and salty from road salt causing rust.
I'm a little ashamed to admit I did a similar fix to my 2004 Freelander EV.
You can buy kits for this off Amazon, screw in the button base and pop on the cover, then repeat 40 more times.
Finished the door panels this afternoon.
Used this: https://ebay.us/m/h4Hdh4
1m at £14.95 will do 8 door panels.
It is also such a close match to the original that if any are ok they can be left alone.
LHS one is representative of the...
Those numbers don't sound too terrible. I'd be OK with driving it for a while but the front Diff mount sounds like it needs replacing
You will learn how heavy the VCU and propshaft are when it lands on your chest. :oops:
Otherwise it's an easy...
Step-1: Buy the DC Clamp meter recommended by Alibro above.
Step-2: Don't try putting a multimeter in-line with the battery feed unless you know what you're doing. Use the clamp meter & note the value after the car is off & locked for at...
The anti-roll bar prevents axle articulation which is good on the road but bad off road. I wouldn't leave them off for long but it should be OK for a test.
BTW you probably already know this having replaced so many but when changing drop links...
Lots of off roaders remove the drop links and anti-roll bar completely so why not?
Remove the drop links and tie up the ends of the anti-roll bar and see how it is.
A decent FL1 should be between £1k and £2k for a low mileage example so the only reason to throw money at one is for the fun of doing it. I was talking to a guy yesterday who has bought a clean 2003 HSE with 70k for £1300
I had a rattle from a faulty shock absorber a few years ago. The cheapest way to confirm it was to buy a used strut complete from a breaker and swap it out.
Get yourself a DC Clamp meter and test the current draw at the battery, they are very useful tools to have anyway.
Something like this one should be OK
https://amzn.to/3GzvATs
Be wary of using a standard multimeter as the current draw when...
Thanks to all who replied.
Ali, I thought for the relatively small amount extra for the full regulator over the repair kit it was worth it. Obviously, in my case I'd have to go motor hunting now. Every day’s a learning day…👍🏻
Hopefully you have the coolant leak sorted but if still loosing a little, they also commonly loose coolant at the water pump so look out for leaks there.
Honestly, same goal over here, more for green-laning than "off roading" the freelander would not handle it, but if you're up to the task chuck in the same engine, you could probably get an early pre-2001 engine for cheaper, I've got a guide on...
The diesel struggles off road without low range to get up steep hills so the petrol will be worse.
For green laning or off road racing racing they are good but not so much for extreme off roading.
Well done.
I don't think it's common for the original motors to fail but I can't comment on after market ones. I guess someone must have replaced the regulator and motor at the same time in the past.
I have to admit I usually order a repair kit...
Off the car should be 1/3 of the time on the car. Due to the 3:1 diff gearing. So 1.2m and 5Kg on the car at a minute is at end of life. I use as a rule of thumb.
The rear bushes are usually so hard to remove it's only worth doing if the arms are good.
Replacement bushes will need pressing in unless you pay extra for the complete unit and this requires a press.