Sounds like the becm has shut done completely. Hence no comms. You need to go one step at a time with this vehicle else you will pull your hair out. I can sort the becm out & the 2.5 diesel engine ecu if required & this should get you started & all the other systems will power up. A new battery...

If the vehicle unlocks off the fob, but refuses to lock, check the ignition barrel isn't sticking. If the ignition thinks the key is still in there the car won't lock. Check the display isn't saying "key in Ignition" & if so, give it a tap underneath. This should solve the problem.

It's great getting half an hour & having a good read up. Reading the voltages on batteries on Range Rover's can deceive you. It's the AMPs that are important, & many a time I've tested batteries & the voltages were in place as not to cause alarm. A bad battery will give you spurious faults even...

I wouldn't turn off the EKA feature. This doesn't have any impact on whether you go into Engine immobilised or keycode lockout. You can still get engine immobilised & keycode lockout with the EKA feature deactivated. If the vehicle does go immobilised or into Keycode Lockout with the EKA code...

Sounds like an electronic module issue, hence the binnacle dropping out. If you can list all the fault codes someone should be able to make sense of it. It could well be the binnacle itself & this is one of the main modules for the car to run.

If you have an L322 on an 03 plate with a TDV6 something is seriously wrong.

Did you wash the engine down afterwards of any oil?

You can get the door handle & key, & you need to get the ignition barrel as well. You can just change the centre part of the barrel by turning key to position one & using a pin, pull the internal barrel out. This saves taking the whole ignition barrel out. Try & get the glove box lock as well.

The Becm is a hub of all the electronics on the vehicle, Anyone of of the other modules, if a problem develops can cause the becm to go into an alarmed state. Flat batteries & dodgy door locks are a very common cause, as well as the under bonnet fusebox. Fusebox's should be replaced every five...

I'm on this one. It has a few issue's. It looks like the system has been spiked at some point. It's more than just diagnostics on this one. I'll tell you something, It's one of the best P38's out there.

The turbo actuator seizes on the TDV6's. Get some WD on it & free it up, & then lightly lube.

We can repair anything, within reason.

If this is the same wire that caught me out many times. It comes down behind the CJB behind the glove box & tucks up under the matting. It goes no where. It's just cut & left. Hope this helps,

I'm going to shout this out again. " NEVER-EVER-DISCONNECT-YOUR-BATTERY-WHEN-THE VEHICLE-IS-LOCKED" Unlock the vehicle first & then disconnect else the vehicle will go straight to KEY-CODE-LOCKOUT.

This repair & remanufacturing isn't all it's cracked up to be.

If it's cranking over then it's not the immobiliser. Check the crank sensor for damage & signal. I have seen this before, many times, & a few of them was down to the becm. Can you tell me the numbers on the sticker on the becm, It's probably a AMR & possibly under 6000. There is also a V...

Hi Haydn, The injector light flashing? What's the Nanocom say?

It doesn't make any difference if it's an auto or manual. If I was you I'd bite the bullet & replace the EPB module as well. Renew the lot

These EPB are quite simple. You need to service the rear brakes at least once a year, maybe twice. A good blow out of the grime & dust & re-adjust the shoes. Adjusted correctly & the motor hardly moves for a full lock on. If you're getting the screeching then it's usually too late & the...

Always make sure the vehicle is unlocked before disconnecting the battery.