It was an honest mistake. But I won't say anything about the drama :rolleyes:

As per image below -

Some years ago German courts have ruled that products with the label "Made in Germany" must at least be assembled in Germany and that more than half of the parts used should originate from Germany. As they say, God created the world and everything else is made in China :)

^^ if we're talking about UJs. As for the grub screw on the front prop shaft, replace with a 1/4 inch UNF nipple for greasing and install back the grub screw once done.

Since Luxembourg is an EU state, the legal requirements on this particular aspect are governed by Regulation 39 - https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2010/39(2)/oj Specifically Clause 5.3 states that "The speed indicated shall not be less than the true speed of the vehicle. At the test speeds...

I see where you're coming from and you might be right after all. This is the first time that I looked at the specs for this product and judging by the specified shear strength and torque values, I'm inclined to say that there are many other more suitable products that LR could have used if all...

As recommended by LR, I do apply Loctite there but I always thought it was a measure against water ingress and diff oil leaking out. Frankly I cannot see how a bead of Loctite can sustain the radial forces acting on the hub bearing and the drive shaft without it getting crushed.

Like Andy said, there are blanking plates there. The pics are for a 1999 D2 (both sides) so yours might be slightly different as there were slight modifications over the years to the A pillar according to the parts cat (item 2) - https://new.lrcat.com/#!/1232/35775/35776/2732/36041

Hi, these pics are for a 1999 D2 LHD. Similar to yours except of course for the location of the master cylinder and the reservoir. Note the plastic loop section before the pipe is routed behind the engine to reach the slave. The OD of the entire circuit is 6mm.

Never used one of these devices but from the image, it looks like the SoC is being measured using the Voltage Method. Just keep in mind that this method performs well in a controlled environment (i.e. stable voltage, current and temp conditions), which is of course not the case when installed in...

My advice to you is don't change what's not broken and save your money as you will surely need it going forward, especially if you plan to use LR specialists garages. As for the shocks, my preference is Kyb - they never disappoint, on any type vehicle. Enjoy and good luck.

An ideal situation for a magnetic induction heater if you have access to one.

^^^ this but I'd stay away from Monroe too unless you want to suffer from sea sickness while on the road. As for Kyb, they are as good as the original IMO but at a fraction of the cost.

My guess is that at some point they were in the process of converting it to auto and gave up when they realised what's involved. AFAIK, you even need to change the wiring harness.

The no. in the 9th position of the VIN should tell you the factory configuration for the gearbox. For manual transmission on a RHD D2, it needs to be 7 which refers to any of the following - LT77 5 Speed Manual, LT77S 5 Speed Manual, LT85 5 Speed Manual, R380 5 Speed Manual, PG1 5 Speed Manual...

No mention of which prop shaft so "rubber...." probably is a reference to the rubber coupling of the rear shaft. In which case, you will need to look for part #TVF100010. Prop shaft itself is most likely fine.

IPA is good but it needs to be diluted, commonly at a1:1 ratio with distilled water. Make sure the metal is cold and avoid direct sunlight during application. Also, most of the clear top coating would have been dissolved so follow up with a protective wax coating.

This is how I found them when I took mine off - a picture of an original clip as fitted at the factory, still attached to the frame. Hope this helps.

If I were you at this stage, I would unplug everything from the engine harness except for those components needed to give you a baseline configuration, just enough to turn the engine. Off the top of my head, this would include the ECU, the starter motor + solenoid and of course the battery. I...

Alternatively you can try using a compass while the heater is on and take note when the needle stops deflecting, which is where you have no current flow.