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mcbrl

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Or just the single oring that comes with the kit will do just fine? I have just disassembled mine and noticed a lot of old RTV / Silicone in the axle where the hub fits. There was also not any sign of "red loctite" on the splines of the shaft.

Also, the wheel-hub kit came with some sort of grease - is that for the oring ? Or do I have to grease the inner part of the ABS sensor?

Appreciate any thoughts from the folks here.

Thanks!
 

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Hi, I suspect the silicone is there to try and prevent the leak from the axle/hub joint. It should only need the large O ring to seal properly. Have done 2 of my rears and both times it was the actual bearing that was causing the leak not the O ring.
Most folks don't put locktite on the splines -just grease to allow easy removal next time.
Griff
 
You shouldn't need sealant, I never have and as for Loctite, why?? It could only make removing them harder.
Do make sure the breather from the axle is clear as, if not, it can cause the oil to leak past the inner seal.
 
The purpose of Loctite on the splines is deductible from point 6 , it makes the hub to be 100% tight on the shaft which prolonges the hub's life otherwise there is a milimetric play in it from the beginning which causes vibrations and hurts it on a long run. IMO in this case LR had a good reason to recommend it.
 
sierrafery said:
The purpose of Loctite on the splines is deductible from point 6 , it makes the hub to be 100% tight on the shaft which prolonges the hub's life otherwise there is a milimetric play in it from the beginning which causes vibrations and hurts it on a long run. IMO in this case LR had a good reason to recommend it.
Click to expand...
Fair enough.
I'd have thought the amount of torque needed to tighten up the nut would stop it moving even milimetrically.
 
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As recommended by LR, I do apply Loctite there but I always thought it was a measure against water ingress and diff oil leaking out. Frankly I cannot see how a bead of Loctite can sustain the radial forces acting on the hub bearing and the drive shaft without it getting crushed.
 
NPG said:
I always thought it was a measure against water ingress and diff oil leaking out.
Click to expand...
That's a purpose too without doubt...what i said about prolonging the hub's life was an assumption based on own experience as on the first hub i changed i didnt use loctite as i knew too little about D2s then i discovered RAVE and made it by the book for the rest... the first failed after about 5 years(no leaks just triggered the 3 amigos) and those with loctite are still OK after more than 10 years each... i'm bought only Borg and Beck hubs so same quality.

i'm not following blindly every LR recommendation cos some of them are silly but this one has some logic based on it's description too: https://www.woronko-adhesives.com/L...r-fastening-coaxial-metal-assemblies_p840.htm
 
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sierrafery said:
That's a purpose too without doubt...what i said about prolonging the hub's life was an assumption based on own experience as on the first hub i changed i didnt use loctite as i knew too little about D2s then i discovered RAVE and made it by the book for the rest... the first failed after about 5 years(no leaks just triggered the 3 amigos) and those with loctite are still OK after more than 10 years each... i'm bought only Borg and Beck hubs so same quality.

i'm not following blindly every LR recommendation cos some of them are silly but this one has some logic based on it's description too: https://www.woronko-adhesives.com/L...r-fastening-coaxial-metal-assemblies_p840.htm
Click to expand...
Having just returned from France towing a citroen Pluriel on a trailer, I have to say that there seemed to be more of a clunk on taking up drives sometimes. It could just be wear on the pin on the Dixon Bate, but I will now investigate as both rear hubs are relatively new and were not Loctited. It could of course also be within the diff.
We will see.
So thanks for this tip.;):)
 
sierrafery said:
That's a purpose too without doubt...what i said about prolonging the hub's life was an assumption based on own experience as on the first hub i changed i didnt use loctite as i knew too little about D2s then i discovered RAVE and made it by the book for the rest... the first failed after about 5 years(no leaks just triggered the 3 amigos) and those with loctite are still OK after more than 10 years each... i'm bought only Borg and Beck hubs so same quality.

i'm not following blindly every LR recommendation cos some of them are silly but this one has some logic based on it's description too: https://www.woronko-adhesives.com/L...r-fastening-coaxial-metal-assemblies_p840.htm
Click to expand...

I see where you're coming from and you might be right after all. This is the first time that I looked at the specs for this product and judging by the specified shear strength and torque values, I'm inclined to say that there are many other more suitable products that LR could have used if all they wanted to do is seal the minute gaps and irregularities between the shaft and the hub bearing. It seems though that the main purpose here is to get rid of any air trapped in the assembly, even out the interfaces and lock the 2 components together, to provide precisely what you described in post #6.
 
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