Could also be your watts linkage fractured, mine was knocking put it down to bushes, got them, was driving it and the linkage broke it had been broken on one side for a while hence the knocking noise, get it checked straight away Sam

Give us a clue? That could be anywhere on your disco

I'm not sure mike would travel to New Zealand to run a diagnostic to be honest

Didn't effect the mot on mine, they're looking for Rot more than cutting out metal, any good garage will see that it's not going to effect strength cutting the lip down to about half its size

I had to on my old D1 basically where the seal sits is where it was cut on mine

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=361173061471 We always make our own exhaust manifold gaskets for chipped Td5's out of that material, never had another broken exhaust stud or manifold warp/blow, permanent fix that only costs a bit of time and £20 for a sheet of material Sam

eBay is defiantly your best bet it a local breakers yard, the window is the same as a disco 1 200 or 300 so should be easy to source

Hi, every d2 td5 I think I've driven has done this so I woul say it's perfectly normal behaviour Sam

I would have thought that was the main reason especially as it came on when you fitted the tyres, it is now like setting off in 2nd gear the bigger the tyres the taller the gearing, to get your power back and gearing back down I would source a transfer box from a V8 as this will be lower ratio...

Yes that is a edc unit

Find a local hgv workshop or suppliers and get a 10mm air line quick fit, I've fixed several in this way and never had a problem with them

Double check your front propshaft, I fitted 3 in a row to a customers car a few months back all were faulty in the double Cardon joint after approx 2-3 weeks each time, otherwise could be the dual mass on its way out Sam

I have a valve with exactly the same problem that I swapp off mine a couple of months ago, not had any luck finding the correct O rings yet, if you do find any would you be kind enough to let me know where from etc as I would like to fix the one I have as a spare Sam

I normally use M10 on them as that's what size the original studs are, I would just use normal bolts as stainless have a habit of binding up against them selfs if you ever need to ale it apart again

They should be standard seat belt bolt size which is 7/16 unf

No, there's three 2 pin electrical plugs in the compressor housing on the valve block, they require disconnecting for both th check I said about and the check sierrafery said about, yes unfortunately I had to replace as I couln find a seal kit for it Sam

Hi, had a similar problem it was leaking back through the gave block where the plugs are. Worth disconnecting the three plugs and spraying valve with water etc to determine leak, I did the same as you checked, changed the bags and that's what it ended up being Sam

Hi, the two side windows although they look like they're heated are actually ariel ones for the radio not sure about the other, By the sounds of it you just have some broken lines in the rear window itself, even the faintest scratch on the red lines will stop them from working Sam

Hi, it's been a while since I last removed a commercial rear wing but from memory its all 10mm head bolts plus the screws in the rear pillar by the door, there's a line where it meets the roof, a line in the middle and a line going top to bottom both on b post and rear post, all acceded from...

We have snap on at work, can talk to everything, code injectors etc, only thing it won't do is keys or bcu programming, it is like a dedicated tool for 90% of vehicles, Sam