Hi all Just finished rebuilding my '89 3.5 V8 Efi (RRC). Put it back in the car and filled with oil and coolant. There is now a drip of coolant forming every day from between the block and the heads on BOTH sides, right in the middle. The engine has never been run so this is without any...

I stuck mine to the screen with glue, then wrapped stripped copper wire as above, then painted a load of conductive paint from maplin on it. Kept building it up until it looked like it would work. And it did. Just the rest of the car to fix now...

Technique for getting the pedestals off the rocker shafts is to heat them first. Same applies when putting them back on.

Easy job as long as the nuts come undone, which depends on when they were last undone. More than likely they will be rusted solid unfortunately but you may be alright. Replace all the washer things while you're on. All depends on the state of things down there. Good luck.

Cheers Dave, I was hoping someone would've done it. Yes, 3.9 one is the same. I've got a 3.9 manifold to practice on and it is BLOODY tight! How did you turn it? I'm thinking drill a hole right through to get a bar through, clamp down the manifold, then try to turn it.

Hi all Anyone ever removed/replaced the inlet manifold bypass pipe? The metal (steel?) pipe that sticks out at the front of the inlet manifold? Mine's rusty and if I look up the new part it's threaded so I assume it just unscrews? 3.5 V8 by the way...

Just a thought. Is it an Efi one or carbs? Mine's a 3.5 Efi with an amplifier module on the side of the distributor. Mine randomly cut out and it turned out to be that. Took weeks of checking everything until I gave up and went to my local garage. Fixed it straight away. Good luck with it.

Yes it is. You fit a manifold air temp sensor to work with the system. Loads of stuff here: MS-Megasquirt/Jolt - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum and here: Megasquirt for V8 engines - Welcome

:hysterically_laughi

Do you mean you're flicking the switch to turn to gas while idling on petrol? On my single point system you flick the switch then rev the engine, the safety valve at the tank clicks as you say, there's a slight hesitation while the gas comes through, have to keep the revs up a bit to stop it...

:hysterically_laughi Surely a scrappy will give you at least thruppence for something THAT heavy. Sorry, on a serious note it's worth whatever someone'll pay for it. Anything from 99p to £20 if someone's really desperate.

Isn't changing the cam bearings an engine out job? Once you've got the top end off, and the front end off, it's not too much further to get the block out and do all the bearings, rings, core plugs etc... :behindsofa:

Exchange unit from Ashcrofts? Search them on google. But as you say you could basically end up working your way through the entire drive train.

If they are fixed by rivets, drill out the old ones and refit with new rivets, steel if you want to. There's loads of rivets used around the rear hatch of my RRC. Get drilling!

Try going megasquirt instead... Megasquirt for V8 engines - Welcome Ditch the distributor altogether, much more exciting!

Did you have rubber rocker cover gaskets? Just a thought but they look like the little rings that fit in the holes in the rubber gaskets the 4 screws go through on each rocker cover. I've had to retrieve a few from the engine with a magnetic probe jobbie when they've fallen in. If you...

Wheel bearing collapse perhaps? I assume there must be a serious problem in the swivel housing if you can't turn the steering. Fluid could be swivel housing oil from internal damage. Best thing is to get the wheel off and strip down the hub/swivel housing, see what's happened. Follow a manual...

I bet it's not this but simple to check... I had a really annoying ticking for ages, just like tappet noise. After much ****ing about it turned out to be a slightly loose spark plug. I could just hear it sparking, which from where it was sounded like a ticky tappet. Tightened up and noise...

66.9p Cheapest in Hereford (Shell). Bloody ridiculous. Every time petrol goes up 1p, LPG goes up 3p. Getting to the point now if I wasn't already converted I probably wouldn't bother...

What's in it? Is it the original spec oil or has it already been filled with 'one shot grease'? If it hasn't and you're really lazy, try emptying it and filling it with one shot grease first.