New inlet manifold gasket, new FPR. Hell's own job getting the bottom back bolt to thread for the oil cooler (the one that also secures the pipe clip), nearly died of sunstroke getting that b****er in. Water ingested, hallucinations have stopped, no harm done. Quite a few inlet manifold bolts...

Thanks, will defo be using a bowl in that case

So why does it come out spontaneously? Does it flush out with little bit of fuel that's in the head?

Makes sense - thanks raywin As it happens, I'm changing the inlet manifold gasket at the same time, so hoping it'll be somewhat less fiddly with the better access

Getting parts together to change FPR next week, but going rate for MAE100010 seems to be (drum roll) 60 to 70 squids Thinking I'll just clean up and re-use the existing one, any reason that's a bad idea? (And 60/70 squid - what the.. ?)

Ah, that makes a difference - some reason I had it in me head they changed to steel for wings on D2. Ali corrosion, yeah not bovved

Does anyone sell repair sections, or do I just bite the bullet and get a whole new wing? Bit at the bottom next to driver's door is bubblin "nicely"...

> Though, given thealloy head - I suspect the limit will be EGT - I would hope that they have a way of limiting this through the ECU - I fear it might get messy otherwise The sheer heat flux going through that thing.... coolant alarm would be next on my list ;)

> Thats quite some list I'm a fussy bugger and tinkering with it is a hobby. Probably would've gotten away with *much* less just to keep it MOT'd and on the road > why did it have two injector looms? It didn't - fixed the list

Don't know the £ amount, but here's The List from 5 years and 70K miles of ownership... Radiator Auto oil cooler Water pump Fuel pump Both rear bump stops Fan belt idler pulley Oil pump bolt Front shocks twice Top hose 4 times (don't ask) Cylinder head core plug Prop donut Prop UJs Boost valve...

If it's bent hinges, this might help? - https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/how-i-fixed-my-bent-tailgate-hinges.224517/

Mine was going the same way, found some clips on fleabay to hold it away from the sump flange using the nearby auto cooler pipe: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221276473068

Or more like this? ...

This sort of thing? -

Round 2 of last week's fight with front drop-links, this time with new toys... ...which made very light work of getting 100Nm on the nuts whilst simultaneously holding the shank from rotating with a torx bit. New front axle breather, old one had nearly chafed thru against the radius arm...

New front fog light fitted - old one had cracked, filled up with water and gone brown Also fitted new aux belt tensioner and one of front drop links. Right old fight both removing and fitting the drop link, so leaving the other to next week.

Only spotted this thread after I posted my wanted: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/td5-turbo-oil-drain-pipe.315014/ Got a TD5 Turbo Oil Drain Pipe?

Mating face has warped on mine, leaks from joint with turbo even with fresh gasket

Used one of these for last ATF change: https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cftp12-12v-oil-and-diesel-pump/ Worked nicely enough. Time will tell if it's a good un.

Reluctantly starting to think along those lines (although you'd expect the expansion tank cap to relieve any HG-leak-induced over-pressure?) Without whipping off the head, is there anything I can do to find out more? Sniff test any use here?