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cfwnotloB

Well-Known Member
I've read quite a bit online re how to do so think its a job i can attempt,
before I do has anybody any advice on sump filter parts eg. where to buy and which make as read some seals don't fit exactly - also what is the best ATF to chose as it will be dropped again in a few hundred miles and refilled so is there a cheaper/throw away fluid and then an decent one to do the second fill with?
when refilling the autobox it seems a hand pump is required - 1Ltr draper pump is about £14, is there any reason not to use a 5Ltr garden spray as i can get one for about £10 off Flee bay as it seems to be an average of 5 Ltrs to refill
 
garden sprayer should be ok , ask for dexron 3
if you want to do the filter screen you need a t27 torx bit and rember to fit 2 orings onit 1 to seal it to valve block the other pick up pipe
 
I used a £7 garden sprayer, did all my oils with it. Took the sprayer head off of it and attached a hose to go into the fill point. This way it kept the trigger working.
Makes doing the jobs so much easier.

Cheers
 
cfwnotloB said:
also what is the best ATF to chose as it will be dropped again in a few hundred miles and refilled so is there a cheaper/throw away fluid and then an decent one to do the second fill with?
Click to expand...

I get what you're saying here - but, .... because you can't change all the fluid in the box and TC without a load of work, then some of the "cheapo" fluid will be left in the box when you do the next change. IMHO, this is a false economy - use the best you can get, and be done with it.

Also bear in mind that oil changes are the cheapest maintenance you will ever do :)
 
neilly said:
Not sure why , but did you see this in the advert?
  • PLEASE NOTE: Do not use this pump to extract water, gearbox oil or easy flammable liquids (fuel, petrol etc)
Cheers
Click to expand...
which is very worrying when the header is --- Hausen 12V Fluid Extractor Oil Diesel Fuel Transfer Pump 60W Siphon Car Bike
 
Possibly the viscosity of "oil" is too much for the pump :rolleyes: .. with the reference to gearbox - they might be assuming EPXX ! but if it won't cope with water (!!!!) :eek: o_O:mad::eek:

( garden sprayer is my call ;) )

Good ole bay of fleas strikes again... maybe :rolleyes:
 
water wont give adequate lubrication, diesel/ heating oil very thin, gearbox etc too thick so chance of heat build up in pump mech causing combustion i'd immagine
 
The best practice is to buy 10L of good oil, change it once, go for a ride as to make it change through all gears many times then change it again....this way you'll have about 80% new oil in it...changing it only once means around 50% new oil only
 
Good tip is to measure precisely what comes out and put the exact same amount back in then do level check etc
 
lynall said:
Good tip is to measure precisely what comes out and put the exact same amount back in then do level check etc
Click to expand...
o_O so if it was a bit low on oil before the oil change you'll put the exact same amount of insufficient oil in it then check level to realise it's not enough? ... i'd say it's better to let the old oil out then put new one in as described in the book then do it again + the filter after a ride, simple as that:cool:

Autobox oil.jpg
 
Last edited:
sierrafery said:
o_O so if it was a bit low on oil before the oil change you'll put the exact same amount of insufficient oil in it then check level to realise it's not enough? ... i'd say it's better to let the old oil out then put new one in as described in the book then do it again + the filter after a ride, simple as that:cool:

View attachment 121666
Click to expand...


I think you have misinterpereted what I was saying
My tip was to give you a good starting point to make the job faster and surely if you own an auto you check the level even if its just once after you bought the car so know its correct before you start?
Ive always done it this way and after the first change you know exactly where you are going time after time.
 
sierrafery said:
The best practice is to buy 10L of good oil, change it once, go for a ride as to make it change through all gears many times then change it again....this way you'll have about 80% new oil in it...changing it only once means around 50% new oil only
Click to expand...


You could always try what they do on the D3 models which is to use the engine to pump the g-box oil out via the cooler hoses so you get pretty much all of it in one hit.
 
lynall said:
You could always try what they do on the D3 models which is to use the engine to pump the g-box oil out via the cooler hoses so you get pretty much all of it in one hit.
Click to expand...

Not only D3s but D1s also, to be correct the old fluid isn't pumped out but replaced, the gear box always has fluid in it.
The fluid in my gear box has been changed twice by this method via the oil cooler pipes, but you need the expensive garage equipment to to it which main LR service depts have, the cost was a reasonable £150 when it was last done.




Sent from my iPad Air on a train.
 
lynall said:
You could always try what they do on the D3 models which is to use the engine to pump the g-box oil out via the cooler hoses so you get pretty much all of it in one hit.
Click to expand...
does this get out most of the oil, also do you need to cycle thru the gears
 
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