If you are confident with sourcing the part and cutting out the old one so all you need is for a man with a welder to turn up and run the welds on the new section clamped into place you can save a lot of money (lots on youtube on howto). I did this and the mobile welding man quoted £120. It...

My main concern was the inside of the chassis and knowing what to use there. The rear cross member of mine rotted from the inside out - looked beautiful and perfect from the outside until the day it all fell away. I was confused by the Dinitrol products, what to use where and when, but finally...

Why no put in a PSI tuning box. Just has pass-through plugs on the ECU - means you can always unplug it and remove all trace of a remap if you need to.

I've just invested in air tools. After much searching I found the best deal to be this from SGS (UK manufacturer with great help line and best kit price - real quality) https://www.sgs-engineering.com/air-compressors/bundles/sc100v-100-litre-high-flow-air-compressor-71pcs-tool-kit I've also...

Might be a silly question .... but how are your determining they are broken. They only have a simple job to do - it's essentially a thin wire that circuitry attempts to keep at a constant temperature - the energy required to keep it at that temperature is directly proportional to the air flow -...

I took apart the security box in my defender and updated the contents to support central locking - don't know if there is anything relevant there - I think the systems are pretty similar,

Arrived in the post today - just had a go - the big ones really do require a lot of heat to get the solder to flow - I've got a gas powered soldering iron with a hot air attachment and that did the job but it does feel as though you are getting close to just setting them on fire. The smaller...

A bit of numpty metal cutting meant I cut through my wiring loom. Started to solder on loads of little extension wires upside down - not easy - gave up because my hands were too cold last night and you can only take so much solder hitting you in the face. Thought there must be a better way and...

Mine was a bit like stirring a bowl of porridge - the slick-shift made it tight and driveable by the whole family - almost like a proper car (how do you go from an Impretza to a Defender?)

I'd include a slick-shift in there - put one in mine and it makes the whole driving experience better. The cheapest mod for the most reward! Great video from the guys at Tirsbaek TV

Lots of good wiring diagrams around: http://www.landroverweb.com/Pdf-files/Defender%20MY2002%20Wiring%20Diagram.pdf

I've had this - 10volts that drops off on demand says there is a poor connection somewhere leaking voltage and it will not fire your lights. I found a really corroded connection at the fuse box (lots of blue powder on the wire) and re-soldering it sorted the problem. Took a bit of chasing around...

I'm with the TD5 brigade - No experience of anything else (so obviously biased) but I know when I have had problems there are only a few cheap sensors to check, and the fuel filter to find the solution. It's a great engine, easily adapted to deliver huge power and very little else to adjust.

Mystery solved - apparently they used a product called ACF50 inside the chassis. From the web video it looks like its nothing more than WD40 and dries to nothing visible (sounds like the emperor's new clothes to me!) - not what I had in mind when I sent it for the full Dinitrol works. Should...

That's what I thought - the externals have certainly been done but no evidence inside the chassis rails. I hope its a genuine mistake on their part - either way with the back end in bits I'll have to sort this out myself and argue the rest later. I'm learning that to get the job you want ...

I got the rear cross member off - staring down the inside of the chassis rails they seem in good condition but ...... there is no evidence of the £500 Extreme Dinitrol treatment that was done on it only 3 months ago (The 'extreme' was meant to do the internals as well). I was expecting to see...

Hi and thanks. I think it did help removing the foam pads. The tank is now out, I have cut through the rear chassis sections. I though it would all have dropped off but have found it is also welded to the cabin rails above. I'm just looking now to get a 9" grinder from somewhere which can reach...

Apologies if a covered subject. I'm replacing the rear cross member so need to get the fuel tank out. 1. Getting the tow hitch off was trouble enough. 2. The fuel tank guard taxed me to the limit (I had to remove the rear diff. guard because that 6mm of forward movement was the difference...

Top prize though to the Aluminium suggestion!

All good responses thanks - I did see a post once where the guy closed all the holes and in the last one injected a few litres of old engine oil - that seems quite practical.