Apologies if a covered subject. I'm replacing the rear cross member so need to get the fuel tank out.

1. Getting the tow hitch off was trouble enough.

2. The fuel tank guard taxed me to the limit (I had to remove the rear diff. guard because that 6mm of forward movement was the difference between it coming off and not)

3. I've got the fuel delivery, breather and all the little pipes off the fuel pump

4. but ........ the tank won't come out!

It drops down low on the LHS (viewed from the back) - but just won't come out! I've been hitting it hard. The fuel filler line pipe is in the chassis rails on the right side so I suppose it must push in the other direction but I've now run out of ideas .... starting to wish I'd handed it over to a garage. Anyone got any ideas of what I'm doing wrong? So close ......

Cheers, Jim

Try this
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/fuel-tank-removal.209040/#post-2301402

Hi and thanks. I think it did help removing the foam pads. The tank is now out, I have cut through the rear chassis sections. I though it would all have dropped off but have found it is also welded to the cabin rails above. I'm just looking now to get a 9" grinder from somewhere which can reach in in the slot over the rear cross member to cut out the joins.

Appreciate the help, cheers, Jim

I got the rear cross member off - staring down the inside of the chassis rails they seem in good condition but ...... there is no evidence of the £500 Extreme Dinitrol treatment that was done on it only 3 months ago (The 'extreme' was meant to do the internals as well). I was expecting to see some sort of greasy coating in there. Has it just not been done? or is the residue pretty invisible? cheers, Jim

You would see Dinitrol if it had been applied. If you can see it on the outside you should see it on the inside of the chassis.

That's what I thought - the externals have certainly been done but no evidence inside the chassis rails. I hope its a genuine mistake on their part - either way with the back end in bits I'll have to sort this out myself and argue the rest later. I'm learning that to get the job you want ..... its best (and cheaper) to do it yourself.

Mystery solved - apparently they used a product called ACF50 inside the chassis. From the web video it looks like its nothing more than WD40 and dries to nothing visible (sounds like the emperor's new clothes to me!) - not what I had in mind when I sent it for the full Dinitrol works. Should have read the small print. I've now bought the proper stuff in and plan to lay down a comprehensive layer of thick cavity wax when the weather warms up a bit.