surely if you set the new fork and it works you still won't know if it was the setting or wear of the old one? if the gear was fine before the rebuild wouldn't that mean it was more likely the problem was the setting?

iirc the horn wire inside the indicator switch can come off or the connection break sometimes, when I got my s3 the horn had been wired separately to a flick switch and wouldn't work from the stalk when I tried to wire it back, so I did the same as you, got a new switch and everything was fine

+1 my s1 gauge is the same shows empty most of the time but on good days it will go to between a quarter and a half, so I shall be giving it a go too

think you must have got lucky :D I always use mintex, I like the way the ends are chamfered. but I do use Lockheed Delphi cylinders - approx. half the price of lucas/trw - because the first trw I bought was duff out of the box, guess we all get lucky sometimes

the bloke whose face you can see in the pic with the cream/limestone one looks like the old editor of legend the series 1 club mag

I potter about in an s3 diesel and I like it :D

http://www.radfordbulkheads.lrsoc.com/ also well known s1 providers but you have to phone for prices, they don't always answer so keep trying

http://shop.classicbulkheads.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_76&product_id=107 try these people, next day delivery available if they have them in stock

I have often thought about fitting coolant heaters to save me having to keep watch whilst the car defrosts :D I know I would never get round to fitting it though

second pic is a classic :D

+1 add it to fuel while the price is historically low, interested to know what the real costs of maintaining ved are and actual revenue received. scrap it and add the net revenue to fuel not the gross

picked a good used bottle and holding frame up for around £20 a couple of years ago and used it on the s1

I just tighten mine till they won't budge any further

I wired my lights into an ignition on live, that way they only work if the ignition is on so you can't leave em on.

those look interesting, do they push in from the back of the plate?

finally got round to sticking some oil in it and firing it up, still impressed by how quickly it starts even after a few days not being run c.f. how long it used to take. early indications; the pattern is clear :D NOT LEAKING RESULT :D whoo hoo, first time since I bought it that it hasn't...

actually wouldn't the sump be easy to do, stick it face down on the sheet and cut round it, stick down the edge of the sheet to the sump using the weight of the sump as pressure. flip it over when stuck, cut off the bit in the middle, then cut through the holes from the other side, no measuring...

think I followed them, whats left is in the bin now :D I thought frosts just sold the cork sheets and you cut your own? but I had forgotten to check them out. think I would rather pay for a bespoke gasket than make a pigs ear of cutting my own, especially for the sump there must be over 20...

right its on :D put rtv between the back of the sump and the flywheel housing for good luck :D found these gasket makers down kernow way, didn't ask for a price on a bespoke cork/rubber gasket but might if the rtv doesn't do the job. http://www.ramgaskets.com/gaskets/gaskets-for-classic-cars/...

cleaning up the sump bolts I noticed that none of them are identical in length. two are particularly long and 3 particularly short with the rest fairly similar, I guess qc in the seventies wasn't the best :D