No, otherwise it would be a waste of time having an oil cooler built in to the rad if it made the coolant overheat!

Looks like a relay base with a shorting link in the cap for when the relay isn't used in a particular model but you need continuity through the base

That sounds a bit more realistic!:)

I hope your guess is right !:eek:

Agreed, however it the rod was too short then I would have expected it to be a reoccurring issue rather than useable(ish) and then not

If the rear sidelights are working (and stay on when the brakes are applied) then that is a fairly good indication that the earth to the bulb holder is ok and that the fault is a lack of power to it

The rod wouldn't just mysteriously get shorter overnight (or while driving it). If it had been like that for 14k you would have noticed it from day 1. I suspect there is something else causing it to look like its too short in the bell housing

Ultimately eBay is an auction site so what its worth is what the winning bidder bids, don't accept offers as they are normally cheeky offers, just let it run

Drop me a PM with email address and I will send wiring diagram plus some other info

Also see this, Paul is also a member on here so worth a PM

Well that one is duff being as it has melted and burnt in the corner!. Assuming that is the same terminal block location as in the picture below then it is actually 4 different blocks in one so don't join all the wires together or you will get a big surprise when you turn it on! Best bet...

How many do you need to do? Could work out quite expensive when you work out the cost per rivnut price! :eek:

The crack in the clamp next to the rusty bolt head

Some basic electrical theory and very rough calculations based on a bit of guess work and your 3.5 ohm reading. We will assume that normal operating voltage is 14 v rather than 12 v (as the alternator will be charging the battery) Assume that the motor gets say 6v at low speed (could be more...

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Just had a look at the wiring diagram and it says that the resistor is 10 Ohms and that the motor is rated at 1 amp but protected by a 15 A fuse! Resistor seems reasonable but a bit suspicious about motor rating!

Mine is always on low too, however to replace it with a potentiometer / variable resistor would require a physically massive one to be able to manage the power & heat. A better option would be to use some sort of transistor / mosfet based variable power supply which could be controlled by a...

If you do it would be handy if you could measure the resistance and publish it on here for future reference.

The resistors primary function is to drop the voltage to the motor when you select slow fan speed. You would need to know what resistance a normal one is before replacing it and preferably the motors current (so you can work out the power rating required). Just be wary that the equivalent...

Could always buy a second engine and rebuild that in slow time, once done swap them over and either rebuild or sell your original?