Well the washer bit arrived, but stupid lrdirect emailed me on Friday afternoon to say that part that should have been delivered that day (slave cyl push rod) is no longer stocked by Landrover, and they can't fulfil the order! I called famous four, and they're going to have a dig around and let...

Dude... You're a bit late to this party.... It's a nut and bolt rebuild, but I salute the contribution :)

Shock already replaced. Bought a pair anyone, so for multiple spares now.

Exactly

Upper shock mount on the rear is the same... 3 bolts. This is the lower shock mount, so through the hole in the Salisbury axle.

What motor!?! How very dare you! ;) It's a 110 defender.

sorry - I should have said, yes the shock has been replaced with a shiny new one, and the haynes is not long for this world.... as soon as the beast is running, I'm going to burn the haynes in a pagan-esq ritual.

Brilliant, thanks for that... I did have a crocodile dundee moment watching that.... "that's not a heavy duty clutch fork!" - mine is the v8, so it's got the chunky cast iron fork. I also don't have slippers on that version. so the other difference - see the photo in my build thread (latest...

Do you mean the recess where the white nylon cup fits, or grease the inside of the nylon cup itself?

Thanks James. I don't even think I can get it through paddocks for sat delivery, as its not a stock item... So much for cradocks sending me everything....

Oh ffs.... So that's another part and another weekend missed! Any idea of the part number?

Any thoughts anyone?

I certainly can't see a race of bearings, but the there's a couple of gaps, like one between the inner spinning rim, and the outer fixed rim.

Ok, so it's just the inner diameter of that plastic tube section then? I eventually found a section in the workshop manual, and it only talks about the "inner diameter"... Not the bearing race itself.

Anyone know what this clip on the release arm is for? The workshop manual says "retain release lever (on pivot) with clip".... This clip isn't going to retain anything.. The gape is too big.

Not the most exciting title, I grant you, but I've never done this job before and it seems too simple a question to be on the internet.. People mention using "moly grease" or "molybdenum disulphide grease".... so, my question is, where does it go? The inner plastic tube that slides up and down...

Just spoke to the mods about how to handle with a view to creating a how-to. Expect a new thread in the coming days.

right. I've just spoken to the chap I bought the paint off. It turns out that it's totally different with enamel. Here's the advice I'll be following: 600 or 800 wet (with fairy liquid added to warm water) to key original paint surface. 400 for areas of corrosion or other major defects primer...

ah.... then I have been lied to! my mate (who is responsible for most things I end up getting into where vehicles are concerned), said "nah just paint it yourself... a couple of different grades of paper on a DA sander and then polishing compound - that's all you'll need!"..... It was on the...

so, red scotchbrite appears to be the "fine" one, correct? confusing as the 3m version reddy brown is the most abrasive. also, where are you all getting your wet sanding discs for 6" DA sander? I've got my dry pads in 180 / 320 /400, but I can't find any 600 or 800 wet pads at all in the UK...