farmershort

farmershort

Well-Known Member
So I came to a final torque up on my rear shocks before finally getting the wheels on the chassis. 75nm according to haynes... Didn't get there before the nut started getting easier to spin. Obviously I'd stripped the nut, but it seems it's so badly stripped that I can't undo it either. It's the nut on the bottom of the shock. Given that the shock is brand new, I'm not too keen on grinding the threaded end off to remove it.

Any ideas how I can save the shock?
 
lever or jack up the threaded spigot as you undo nut it should catch , when tightening nut just do enough till nut hits the shank then a nip, if bushes looked to squashed before that leave it like that
 
appy downward pressure on nut whilst trying to undo it
or
good sharp chisel and split the nut
or
careful use of grinder on the nut itself

Good luck, take your time and be careful
 
Double check that torque figure against the Workshop Manual. I did the same thing with an engine mount once because the figure in the Haynes manual is wrong.

Could you use washers so that the undamaged thread is used?
 
300Tdi Workshop manual states 37Nm for info.
upload_2016-2-21_15-39-25.png

Good luck,
 
I did the same to one of mine a few years back. I wound a second nut on until it touched the first one and then welded them together, then I could unwind both nuts together to remove them. There was just enough space between the end of the shock and the axle. Then I had to remove the shock and cut the lower pin off so I could weld a new one on (salvaged off an old shock).
 
Could be if you've stripped it. Mine was, both the shock pin and the nut were toast.

Might get away with running a die/thread chaser along it but it'll never hold the same torque again.
 
Thanks for your help folks. This is what I did in the end:

Bought a set of draper nut splitters off Amazon.

Set about the nut with the nut splitter, did one side, then repeated 180 degrees around the nut.

The nut was recessed into the dish washer, so the nut wouldn't split totally, but I did mash it up good!

Then bend the shock away from the axle to exert pressure on the nut, and then undo.

That's it... Job done... Here's some pics:


20160223_163854.jpg
20160223_164058.jpg
 
nobber said:
How did you manage to tear up all the threads. Was that upon removal of the nut?
Click to expand...

No idea... Possibly on removal for the very end threads, but it looks like somehow even the nylock section of the but has stripped the thread... That's some mighty strong nylon!
 
nobber said:
Bin it. And bin the Haynes book also.
Click to expand...
Agreed, I have found wrong torque figures in Haynes manuals for Defender and also suffered a double hernia after trying to remove a clutch from a Metro using a puller when Haynes did not mention that you had to remove a large washer before winding up the puller.
 
LifetimeLandy said:
Agreed, I have found wrong torque figures in Haynes manuals for Defender and also suffered a double hernia after trying to remove a clutch from a Metro using a puller when Haynes did not mention that you had to remove a large washer before winding up the puller.
Click to expand...
This sounds like it was a Mini, what exactly did you do, because as long as you wound the bolt out a few threads to push on the washer wouldn't have been affecting it
 
It's been over ten years since I did the job so I'm not sure exactly what I did, but I remember it was was a metro not a mini. I had no idea that the washer was there so ended up lying on the ground with something on the puller handle to give me more leverage and both feet pushing the other way against the car. Of course the puller eventually did it's job after I realised that the washer was there and hooked it out of the way. I then hand wrote a note in the Haynes manual about the washer in case I had to do another Metro.
 
Guess you'll need to run a thread die down that shock's thread otherwise you'll just ruin a new nut for sure. Possibly use two ordinary nuts (helps lock them together) as end of thread looks stronger. Also suggest adding a spire lock washer as I doubt a lock nut would hold on the worst part of the thread. Good luck.
Regards, Seaboy
 
sorry - I should have said, yes the shock has been replaced with a shiny new one, and the haynes is not long for this world.... as soon as the beast is running, I'm going to burn the haynes in a pagan-esq ritual.
 
farmershort said:
sorry - I should have said, yes the shock has been replaced with a shiny new one, and the haynes is not long for this world.... as soon as the beast is running, I'm going to burn the haynes in a pagan-esq ritual.
Click to expand...
They really are pants compared to a proper workshop manual. I had the workshop and parts manual set for my last series III, and felt I could do anything to it.
 
I replaced my lower shock bushes a couple of times , l just tighten the nut until it reaches the end of the thread.
As it's a nyloc nut it shouldn't come loose.....and they didn't.
I just replaced the bushes again after 16,000 miles and both nuts were still exactly where l left them, at the end of the thread.
 
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