so, red scotchbrite appears to be the "fine" one, correct? confusing as the 3m version reddy brown is the most abrasive.

also, where are you all getting your wet sanding discs for 6" DA sander? I've got my dry pads in 180 / 320 /400, but I can't find any 600 or 800 wet pads at all in the UK. just paper sheets.
 
Hahahahaha!!!! Elbow grease my friend. You won't find discs in that grade. I'm shocked that you found them in 400. Go to the nearest paint supplier and get the sheets, just bigger than a4 size. Cut them up as required. My local supplier will sell it by the sheet but it's not cost effective. Buy a whole pack. You want 3m or indasa. Halfords stuff is rubbish. Scotchbrite - I think 3m had a different colour system to others. Also, they're all fine when you think about it. It's only really a scouring pad after all. Most are green - most aggressive (I use these at work for scrubbing chemical tanks clean), red/purple/brown - fine (but can still cut into paint better than you'd think), grey - ultra fine (for use on new panels that come primed and just need a very light key). If you were nearby I'd happily pop over and help get you going but it's a bit of a trek lol!

I thought there may be more knowledge shared about this tbh. Surely not everyone here paints their landy with a roller?
 
Discokids said:
Hahahahaha!!!! Elbow grease my friend. You won't find discs in that grade. I'm shocked that you found them in 400. Go to the nearest paint supplier and get the sheets, just bigger than a4 size. Cut them up as required. My local supplier will sell it by the sheet but it's not cost effective. Buy a whole pack. You want 3m or indasa. Halfords stuff is rubbish. Scotchbrite - I think 3m had a different colour system to others. Also, they're all fine when you think about it. It's only really a scouring pad after all. Most are green - most aggressive (I use these at work for scrubbing chemical tanks clean), red/purple/brown - fine (but can still cut into paint better than you'd think), grey - ultra fine (for use on new panels that come primed and just need a very light key). If you were nearby I'd happily pop over and help get you going but it's a bit of a trek lol!

I thought there may be more knowledge shared about this tbh. Surely not everyone here paints their landy with a roller?
Click to expand...


ah.... then I have been lied to! my mate (who is responsible for most things I end up getting into where vehicles are concerned), said "nah just paint it yourself... a couple of different grades of paper on a DA sander and then polishing compound - that's all you'll need!".....

It was on the basis of that advice, that I started down this road.. :(

On the plus side, 3m do have a "dry system"... a selection of pads which go right up to 3000 grit, with funny swirl patterns in them to avoid clogging. I might give a pack of those a go.

Is it possible to use a polishing pad on the DA sander with a cutting compound instead of the wet sanding phase?


one final thing: what do I need for cleaning the spray gun? just some paint brush cleaner fluid (safe white spirit?), and a tray big enough to fit the components in? I want to try and make sure I have everything I need before I go near this process.

Thanks for the advice, and of course for the offer of help :) you never know, I might be landyzone's foremost enamel painting expert after all this! ha!
 
right. I've just spoken to the chap I bought the paint off. It turns out that it's totally different with enamel. Here's the advice I'll be following:

600 or 800 wet (with fairy liquid added to warm water) to key original paint surface. 400 for areas of corrosion or other major defects

primer

1000 grit wet (with soapy water again)

1 coat of enamel, or possibly 2, 24 hours apart. no polishing or cutting back of this top coat at all, as it takes years to properly cure. The final spray finish is the final finish.

I'm kind of looking forward to it now. none of that 10 coats of paint and cutting back malarky!
 
That sounds excellent. Easy peasy. Cleanup wise, whatever thinners goes with the paint, use for cleanup. Don't leave your gun soaking in thinners as it will cause premature cracking/hardening of the seals in it. Good luck with it, plenty of photos on here will be good too.
 
Discokids said:
That sounds excellent. Easy peasy. Cleanup wise, whatever thinners goes with the paint, use for cleanup. Don't leave your gun soaking in thinners as it will cause premature cracking/hardening of the seals in it. Good luck with it, plenty of photos on here will be good too.
Click to expand...

Just spoke to the mods about how to handle with a view to creating a how-to. Expect a new thread in the coming days.
 
Just found this thread, and a most interesting and informative piece. However, it seems to have died a death without warning and what became of the step by step pictures that were promised is anybody's guess.
 
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