It all those symptoms, but no cracks found. Bolts on prop shaft to rear diff input shaft tightened, all noise gone! It went in to have the welding done....... But it wasn't that! Chris.

In case anyone else is searching through these snags, mine was due to the prop shaft bolts not being quite tight enough on to the diff flange. That has fixed these noises for me! Chris.

Did you ever get this snag fixed, as I now seem to have exactly this. I'm told the rear diff is f**ked and needs replacing. Thanks, Chris

I've one of No. 3...... 2002 model from new and I still think it is ace!!!!! Sad I know!

Think I had a similar thing, turned out to be play in the lower engine/gearbox to body tie bar mount! The knock was particularly noticeable on going between forwards and reverse and seem to be coming from the area around the drivers feet.... where the tie bar is! Worth a check. Chris

Yes, the brute force and ignorance route with wire cutters on any suspicious looking cables is the way I'm thinking too. But will wait until the parts arrive as window conveniently stuck up and it is winter! Was hoping someone might know a less destructive more subtle solution! Thanks for the...

Thanks but done all that! Windows is in the up position, and to remove the gubbins and replace the cables everything I've read says window needs to be a few inches down to get at the bolts that clamp the window to the gubbins so the window can be removed first! BUT, I can't seem to get the...

Hi all, Have searched but can't find answer to this aspect of the rear window problem! Cable has snapped with the window in the up position, it is a three door so I can open the door by removing the roof, yes cable snapped, found all the advise about kits and diy with cycle cable. BUT can't get...

Changed two water pumps now on my TD4, one at about 90k, second one about 140k, the first time I used a "cheap" pump... Got a better one the second time around! Pig of a job! But you don't have to remove half the bits that RAVE says you have too!! Chris.

Oh as to the part, try searching for Freelander solenoid repair kit or similar phrase. Chris.

Willo, Job was done from the top! Mine is a manual, and I do believe the auto is more tricky - my biggest problem was a tight bolt, a worn socket and a long extention bar that started to round bolt head!! Obtained a new socket that drives on the flats of the bolt head rather than corners and...

Had this same sounding snag on my TD4 manual. Would start instantly, then next start take several clicks before successfully starting, next start would be instant, etc...... Got solenoid repair kit off ebay, about a tenner, and that cured it! Solenoid repair was dead easy, getting starter off...

Changing the thermostat is a bit of a bugger, water pump has to come out! Done it a few times now... So have come up with a few possible short cuts if you decide to do it! Chris.

Thanks - I shall go have a look.. Chris

Thanks, I have found it, it is just stupidly tight! Sheared off a 1/4" drive rachet trying to undo the top bolt, hence the thought that could be a nut behind it too.... Think it has started to round off as well.. Chris

Trying to get the starter motor out - it is being a pig. Cannot get the top bolt undone! Can anyone enlighten me - is this top fixing a nut and bolt on the back - as per the lower fixing, or does the bolt tighten into a threaded hole. Trying to remove from the top of the engine only without...

Will own up to be equally stupid and doing exactly the same thing!!!!! Possibly a couple of years ago now.... Did the same and removed tank sender unit - couldn't find it, so it still must be lodged in the filler pipe somewhere, no adverse effects noted... 2002 TD4 if that makes a difference...

Recently changed my VCU "on spec" so to speak. Done 140k miles and a support bearing was getting noisy so dropped the lot... Changed the vcu and bearings. VCU was passing the tipex test, I reverse out ever morning on nearly full lock and the back end did feel like it was skipping a little bit...

130k miles on original vcu. Recently removed as one of the support bearing got very noisy. Contemplating new vcu. Was keeping "an eye" on the unit with six monthly "tippex" tests and monitoring the torque to turn the rear wheel. All appeared ok!!! But as it is off and for the cost - may...

Had a possibly similar "clonk" on taking up drive, but on a manual TD4. Replaced a tie bar between gearbox and subframe. £50 from LR plus one hour of my time to fix! This is situated in the area on right hand side of engine (from inside) under drivers feet. Chris