I think both are temp senders. My current head has 2 in it, both work. In your case maybe one stopped working and is seized so they left it in and installed a new one where blanking plug would normally be.

HAC? Caremonial landy?

Mine sits in the middle of the dash between the ash tray and light switch, on the vertical fave with screws. I think location was subject to who installed it

Sounds like something isn’t right. Tappet gaps is a good shout, any out of tolerance check the push rods for straightness, if something mechanical has failed these are the designed weak point. Compression test also good shout next step, just involves getting your hands on a tester. I wouldn’t...

I used a bearmach one, been absolutely fine

I think your first step is to give the engine a service and check the work of the PO. It could be a combination of poor adjustments or a particular fault. Check valve clearances, replace/check fuel and air filters, is oil in good condition, sedimentor clean? Are the battery and alternator in...

Adjust tappets really really accurately, I use a dial gauge and make sure a 0.28 feeler gauge won’t fit under. Check timing of injection pump, use timing pins. Target is around 28mpg

Agree with Doriz on the squeal likely a belt. I’ve only got the 1 aux belt and when it’s getting slack it squeals as I rev, once engine is warm it stops. Check and tighten. Can’t help on the clutch I’m afraid.

The blip for alternator is something to do with excitation. A DC current is needed to generate the magnetic field in the alternator. I presume the blip is needed because idling isn’t enough to start it off

Mine is always the same, na engine. I put it down to low load / high revs. Always clears 500m down the road

On the plus side your engine bay is probably nicely lubricated and rust proofed from the oil leak ;)

Lol. As suggested check hydraulic leaks first. Another common issue is the pivot ball punches through the clutch fork. If your hydraulics are fine this could be your issue, essentially it’s a clutch change job.

Personally I agree with above, unless your doing specific hard core off-roading standard height is the best compromise between on/off road. Lifts often need different shocks, radius arms and wide angle UJ’s.

I’ll see about it at the weekend ;)

Yeah I caught up reading after I post that. I’d be very worried about the trailer wagging the car under sudden braking/manoeuvring, seen a few poorly loaded trailers cause it. I only got the licence to tow my Sankey, and I always make sure to have nose weight so it behaves itself. Towing it is...

I believe you can’t tow a trailer heavier than the tow vehicle, or the max train weight plated on the vehicle. I don’t think the manufacturers can plate it to allow heavier trailers either. So I assume 7t will be the maximum for a B+E category regardless. Exceeding the plated weights is...

I did a day and half tuition followed by test. This made the test relatively easy and I passed with no minors. Instructor and Examinor were both absolutely sound.

Yup. I had to do B+E because I wanted a Sankey trailer with my 110. Mad but at least now I have the licence I can crack on.

If you do the B+E test you can drive a 3.5t MAM car with a 3.5t MAM trailer, so 7t MAM total. Trailer must not exceed maximum train weight specified on the vehicle, a 110 this is just over 6t. So you can tow a 3t trailer with your 110 if you have B+E

You can get a full back upgrade to the military seats from exmoor trim, not tried or seen them yet