L

luk3jay

Member
Hi again everyone,
Long story short my (1983) 110 had been sat for 2 weeks due to a flat battery, i had to get it home on a flatbed.

I noticed the clutch wasn't working Once I sorted the battery out and tried to drive away. I think it's something between the pedal and the clutch itself. It feels as if it is moving the clutch, just not enough (it gets close to releasing but doesn't fully disengage)

I haven't really used hydraulic clutch linkages before. Are there any common faults I should be aware of? Also what fluid should i put back into it? I'd love to repair this myself as each fault is a learning experience but I don't want to break it!

Thanks in advance :)
 
luk3jay said:
Hi again everyone,
Long story short my (1983) 110 had been sat for 2 weeks due to a flat battery, i had to get it home on a flatbed.

I noticed the clutch wasn't working Once I sorted the battery out and tried to drive away. I think it's something between the pedal and the clutch itself. It feels as if it is moving the clutch, just not enough (it gets close to releasing but doesn't fully disengage)

I haven't really used hydraulic clutch linkages before. Are there any common faults I should be aware of? Also what fluid should i put back into it? I'd love to repair this myself as each fault is a learning experience but I don't want to break it!

Thanks in advance :)
Click to expand...
Id ask in the correct technical thread. :)
 
See if thers any leaks, slave and master cylinder are both cheap enough, fit decent ones so they last and they pretty much gravity bleed.

Ps wrong section of the forum.
 
Lol. As suggested check hydraulic leaks first. Another common issue is the pivot ball punches through the clutch fork. If your hydraulics are fine this could be your issue, essentially it’s a clutch change job.
 
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Check for wet patch on floor under the clutch pedal, (a common problem) if so master cylinder will be leaking, not a big job to change but a bit fiddly, does the clutch work after pumping it several times if so its air in the system which can only get in if there is a leak and it does not need to be much of a leak, is your clutch fluid level ok. Check for leak around the slave cylinder and lift the cover on the master cylinder housing to inspect that, both slave and master cylinders should be dry, check the pipe from master to slave along its length, any signs of brake fluid in any of them obviously points to a leak.
If no leaks and pumping the pedal does not work another thing you can try before resorting to more drastic dismantling is to adjust the master cylinder rod adjustment nuts to give more travel.
 
Thanks everyone!
Fluid level seems okay. I've finally got some free hours tomorrow to look at the beast properly! I'll report back with pictures.
 
landowner said:
Makes it sound easy, push rod lock nuts are a pain :)
Click to expand...
You're right they are! I usually end soaking them thoroughly with oil then using my fingers or the flat of an old screwdriver to 'flick' the nut round. Remember to use the adjuster bolt at the front of the pedal box too
 
Thanks guys, the weather wasn't too cold today and i had some time after work to have a look.
I can't find any leaks, I topped the fluid up a few weeks ago (it was already at a good level) and it's not gone down. I was going to bleed the system but ran out of time. i've ordered a new master and slave cylinder as they're cheap enough and i'd like to get it working again sooner rather than later.
I'm hoping to do this on Saturday! i'll report back to help future people :)
 
Flossie said:
Multipoint ring spanner with a slot cut out of it helps to crack them loose, agreed though...pita
Click to expand...

You mean like this? ;)

B9K8NaI.jpg
 
Hi guys, just an update if anyone reads this in the future.
i opened the box behind the clutch pedal up, and i adjusted the bolts. it's now working absolutely fine, as it should do and i've driven 100 miles so far. i've still got the new master/slave cylinder, but not fitted them. i'll keep them as a spare. Thanks for all the advice!
 
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