just to add to my post of ages ago regarding this - I have changed dozens of uj's on p38s and have never found a front one "in phase" yet ... all have been offset out of phase, all have had a key spline and all have been nice and smooth after wards.

Hi if first dibs doesn't take it could you let me know please Cheers

hi do you still have the defender lt77 available? Cheers

Hi the road, cpuld you let us know where you got the microswitches from and a ball park price please?

Hello All, As my youngest child is now approaching driving age, it looks like I will be adding to the defender, driven by my son, and P38 RR driven by the wife, with a freelander 1 to be driven by my daughter, having little experience of freelanders I am looking for opinions as to reliability...

Just had a message back to confirm that l322p38products have nothing to do with symlise. So Now we know for sure

I have just sent the seller the question asking if he used to be symlise - I will post any reply here

Hope its just a name change, I have bought from him in the past and found the gear to be good. If anyone can confirm either way please post so that we all know

Sorry, Mcapina If jumping to conclusions was a sport I would be very fit indeed. To answer the question yep it is usual for a key spine, but as with most things it can be over come but with horrendous results. Cheers

They are definitely meant to be out of phase, not only have I changed loads I am an IRTE qualified engineer with over 30 years experience. If you managed to get the ujs in phase the resultant vibration at 55 will be unmanageable and damage your steering

Definitely supposed to be out of phase changed lots of these and all the props are out of phase to the degree that you cannot correct it by rotating the splines

I think there used to be a firm in Aston, Brmingham who did these conversions, but not many

when my Son and I did his N/A to 300tdi conversion, the engine and all the bits inc new clutch, new radiator, used intercooler, front exhaust, middle box and custom rear half, turbo pipe (home made bigger bore) probably totalled just under a grand all in all (we kept the LT77 Box). It is cheaper...

totally agree lift engine out, and fix on bench is easier than box out and grovel on the floor underneath, especially if you are changing the housing gasket aswell. Also box is really heavy and not really safe to lower balanced on a jack, safest way is to take out middle seat and lower with an...

looks to me like a blocked / aged radiator - I would fit a new one they aren't too expensve, and easy to swap

under the seat box plate you should be able to see the top of the sender with the wiring attached.

if the temp gauge is still working - no. try removing the sender wire and touch it to the chasis / body - if the gauge goes to full its the sender, if it doesn't move its the gauge or a wiring break.

its part of the tub, where are you I have an old tub that has been used as a souce of ally that the panel could be cut from - pm me

The symbol you describe is gearbox / transfer box temperature, but i didn't think defenders had temp sensors on the box. search around the box and transfer box for a temp sender, it will not be higher up the box than the filler level plug do don't confuse it with diff lock switch or reversing...

my advice would be to buy a basically complete but almost total scrapper, use it as the base and keep as many of the original bits (axles engine gearbox) as possible to acumulate enough points to keep the original plate (if that's what you want) . cheers