Would absolutely suggest just making a loom from scratch, adding in whatever you need. Likely to work out cheaper, too.

This drawing gives an idea. Post in thread '109 3/4 Hood Stick dimensions?' https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/109-3-4-hood-stick-dimensions.223233/post-2535136

Interested in your rock sliders/sills, DIY job? Any more photos?

Have you considered lowering leafs and chassis mounted neons?

I had one from them a couple of years ago, no issues with delivery or customer service but bulkhead itself wasn't as good as I expected. Holes in the wrong place, not tapped etc. Only very slightly out but enough to ruin your day.

Just shows how easy it is for chassis rot to go unnoticed.

Yes it should be resting on the mounts corresponding to the rubber patches on the underside of the tub. A slight gap is unlikely to be a big deal as the tub, being mostly aluminium, would flex and close the gap with any sort of weight in the back. When rebuilding mine onto a new chassis these...

Not sure I like the idea of brake pipe being secured to the axle by a jubilee clip, unless it's an illusion. It won't take long to chafe through if that's metal on metal.

Thanks Phill, I'm not sure unfortunately but doubt it as I think the banjo on these will be imperial. I'll ask him to send me the measurements later on to confirm.

Good morning all, Does anyone know where one of these twin spur fittings can be purchased individually rather than the whole fuel line? A friend on mine is in a pickle after managing to snap one of the outlets off the fitting. Beer tokens available if someone has a spare they'd be willing to...

That depends on your crane!

If it's a bare chassis, couple the box and engine up before lifting onto the chassis.

Bobsticle not at at fault here, there was a spam bot posting which bumped the thread beforehand.

Why are people still entertaining this dreamer?

Double check freeplay at the master cylinder. I had a similar problem on my recent rebuild where the OSF would bind, regardless of what I did behind the wheel, new slave, etc. Turned out the new master cylinder (which had the correct freeplay on fitting) had absolutely none, so was always...

I also get the oil pressure light flash up on heavy breaking, or steep descents off road. Not investigated it yet but I'm on new mounts post full rebuild and definitely correct oil level on the stick.

If you've got a welder, try running a small bead of weld on the inside of the outer bearing race, as the weld cools it shrinks the race slightly and usually drops out...

When I used to work in a motor factor we kept big books/catalogues of brake pad and disc fitments/applications. At the back was each part number with exact dimensions annotated; stud pattern, thickness, bore etc. If you could find an old school motor factor that's still likely to have the...

Then our experiences have differed, which is fine. I've fitted many blue box parts over the last few years and yes some are of poorer quality, but I've yet to find any completely unworkable. My outlook on it was I'd rather do my rebuild for a reasonable cost fitting Britpart where I can and...