neikeel

Member
Scroll back 20 years and the Series disc brake conversion introduced in LRO at the time I was restoring my 72 station wagon, the TI Console version from Chris Perfect seemed well..... perfect. Encouraged by blurb saying that it was all widely available Mercedes MB100 parts I fitted it and was extremely pleased with it, getting pads was easy.
Foolishly I sold wagon to a friend who used it in fits and starts and recently sold it back at more than I wanted to pay but less than he wanted (so we are still friends!).
Driving it home the brakes were dreadful (used to stop on its nose) but he did warn me.
O/S disc was 10mm thick (original around 14mm) and someone had tack-welded a pad backing plate to the passive pad to compensate!
Simple - I will get new pads and discs. Nope, pads still easy but discs are a problem and I've searched every way I can think of.
259mm (+/-1mm for rust!) rotor diameter, 14.5mm thick, 6 fixing studs with 125mm centres and the central hub opening is 104mm, height is 33-34mm again rust allowance.
At a push the full size rotor will clean up at 12mm but the 10mm one is shot.
Can anyone help advise apart from putting my hand in my wallet (bearing in mind my 'spending money' pot is now empty and will take months to replenish!).
Cheers
 
When I used to work in a motor factor we kept big books/catalogues of brake pad and disc fitments/applications.

At the back was each part number with exact dimensions annotated; stud pattern, thickness, bore etc.

If you could find an old school motor factor that's still likely to have the books it might be worth a look through.
 
I have added some pics if they are of any help?
j94lWu5.jpg

TEl7cav.jpg

Looks like most likely result will be to get 34mm height solid discs, trim to correct diameter and bore out centre to correct diameter and drill some 10mm holes
in correct places for the studs.
Maybe the pics will help someone else too
 
Think i would upgrade the whole system to another make disc conversion as i see it being a real problem if you are struggling now, if it helps i fitted a full Zeus kit early this yeah and really happy with it :)
 
Think i would upgrade the whole system to another make disc conversion as i see it being a real problem if you are struggling now, if it helps i fitted a full Zeus kit early this yeah and really happy with it :)
Yes I agree, and I have that as the long term plan. Likely the Dutch kit to use Defender discs and callipers.
However, for now I have a (much cheaper) solution: BMW 316i/318i discs are the same diameter and 12.7mm thick with 35mm height and similar mounting rim diameter. A local engineering firm will bore to the correct inner diameter and drill and tap the holes for a very reasonable sum.
After new pads and calliper boots it will be under £250 as opposed to £1500plus for another kit, although the Zeus kit does look quite cost effective. I know that these brakes will stand the landy on its nose when I've set them up like I did originally.
 
Yes I agree, and I have that as the long term plan. Likely the Dutch kit to use Defender discs and callipers.
However, for now I have a (much cheaper) solution: BMW 316i/318i discs are the same diameter and 12.7mm thick with 35mm height and similar mounting rim diameter. A local engineering firm will bore to the correct inner diameter and drill and tap the holes for a very reasonable sum.
After new pads and calliper boots it will be under £250 as opposed to £1500plus for another kit, although the Zeus kit does look quite cost effective. I know that these brakes will stand the landy on its nose when I've set them up like I did originally.
Nice one ;)
 
Update.
The BMW discs fitted and the discs and rebuilt are now working well (ie it stops properly now).
They feel a bit more wooden than I remember so next step is to strip and clean the rear drums, replenish and bleed the system and I am optimistic that all will be well once the pads have bedded in.
 

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