I was thinking of going for these. Quite cheap and a relatively good set of ratings given that most of the time I drive main roads. https://www.tyreleader.co.uk/car-tyres/linglong/greenmax-hp010/255-65-r16-109h-980897

I am looking to put some dedicated road tyres on my P38 as most of my driving is dual carriageway and motorway, I do have a set of off road wheels and tyres when required While looking through all the brands I saw a tyre with a 'B' fuel rating. In the tech blurb they said that the tread depth...

I have changed my view. Next time I will try 3 Irwin quick grips with the end turned so they act as spreaders. It looks lie there are 3 flanges on he drive shaft that can be used.

Is that just add the resistor in line with the yellow wire?

Excellent bit of lateral thinking there,

@Salisbury Nick. If you are making a custom bracket, is there any benefit in investing in a smaller more efficient oil cooler? Those cooling tubes and fins don't look that efficient so may miss the the air flow that its original position provides.

Luckily its still in my YouTube history.

Thats right I put the vid on here. He even provided links to the parts he bought so you don't have to worry about getting the right one.

Talking of Invercargill. Has anyone seen the Kiwi film 'Goodbye Pork Pie'. They jump a mini into a moving freight train car, the type with the central opeing doors. I was very impressed as a teenager. Haven't seen the film since so might not be a great as I remember.

I wondered if there were any parts on the P38 made by SU. I had an agency job in the summer of 96, after finishing uni, taking parts from SU into the LR plant in Solihull. I always thought it was for the very last of the Classics but curiosity has got the better of me.

OK not the prettiest but I would say its got plenty of room for a mid engine conversion, like the Renault 5 Turbo, to take a monster engine. Now that would be fun to watch. That could lead to a "Bowler" Velar!

I did buy a Streetwise 400A in 2017, needed it last month and it wouldn't turn the engine over on a 1.6. I didn't think these things deteriorated over time.

I think they are M10 but Raves tells you.

I can't remember if Rave tell you to remove the radiator. If it doesnt then remove the rad as it gives you more room to work and saves it from damage if you slip. plus you need some additional bolts to pull the pump out,, make sure you have these on hand.

I've been thinking about this myself. I think you would need a heavy metal plate and 3 long bolts. The the plate needs to be drilled to fit over the studs plus 3 tapped holes that sit over the 3 tabs of the swivel hub. The shaft is then pulled out by screwing down the long bolts against the...

Thanks Wammers, I thought the hub and the swivel hub were both tapped so never thought of this approach.

I am trying to replace the ball joints on my car. At the point of trying to remove Hub and drive shaft. Rave states "Release hub from carrier. Remove hub and drive shaft assembly." Mine is not moving at all despite trying to lever it away with a fine chisel. Any tips an hint on how to do this?

I found some pics from @Grrrrrr post some years ago, its GN013 I need.

When looking up Beru glow plugs for the diesel, I am given 3 different part numbers GN909, GN013 and GV719. Which one should I order?

Good idea gents. Will do that when I get back on it later this week.