Probably should have made note of this before I cut all me manky old pipes off. It's an '87 90, just two outlet ports on master cylinder, one normal M10x1 and other looks to be M12x1, it's okay, kept the union and she's mint, trouble is which is for fronts and which is for rears Cheers

Steve parker will probably do something to fit, not sure if he does big bore and or side exits but go on the website and have a look

have you got a adjustable panhard rod... soon sort that out hahaha

6mm ID? Think 4 fits better

Just a shame I didn't weld it on straight

Take your windows out and plate over with ally sheet and rivets with a bit of silicone, then make a plywood bulkhead to go behind seats up to ceiling

Looking for a good second hand pipe from a 300 defender to go from turbo, round back of engine to air box, will need to be posted unless within reasonable distance of south wiltshire/north dorset, willing to pay for couple of beer tokens and clear the postage cost No longer needed thank you

What about when you kiss a tree and twist the bonnet slightly, aint gonna seal to the wing then is it

Depends how strong you are to lift the bonnet with the tyre on

On the engine side of the turbo, there is a threaded rod which holds an arm shut (the wasteagate) then when it boosts the air pressure pushes the arm open and controls the boost. With a struggle because it's quite stiff and pretty difficult to get to, you should be able to move the rod by hand...

I realise that, and I'm saying that although it's great that it's going so well but it could be going too well, and may end up doing damage

Apart from if it's siezed shut and not bleeding off the exhaust gasses to control boost it may over boost Being a diesel and having the sort of fip it has it's not really going to do any harm unless it boosts sufficiently to heat the intake alarmingly, then things could start to get a bit too...

wastegate siezed shut?

What exaclty was involed in the service

@Pillar

Seriously? What sort of impact gun have you been using? A shìt one with 8" of springy extension before the socket with a carp UJ thrown in for good measure

I'd hesitate to just start grinding welds because you could be grinding the sleeve out of the chassis, which would make you more work you could avoid, clean it all up and try and determine what id bush and what is chassis

Are you sure the its actually the bush that is welded? The bush is pressed into a piece of tube that is welded into the chassis, is that what your seeing? Obviously the bush only has a thin outer steel sleeve so can easily be hidden by rust and dirt when it's in the chassis

Ah the good old drill lathe, get the drill held steady or use pillar, then fire up your grinder