looking at this video both bolts are removed, and the piston wound all the way back. The slide pins, behind the rubber cover, comes out and needs greasing every time or it'll seize. May need a clean up if rusted. Obviously, as in the video, super clean overalls required and super clean work...

I think mine have done around 7000 miles, tempted by the HD ones, or accept changing them every couple of years. Easy enough to change even as a service item when checking slide pin on front brakes.

Drop links have a limited life span!

The pipe at the front and top of the engine? Mine has spewed some oil out there too. The pipe can rub and cause small hole in the pipe.

Intermittent faults are hard to trace. Could be cable damage. Finding it isn't easy. Visual inspection or having a slightly lower rated fuse in the cable run can indicate which length of cable is at fault. So if the middle fuse blows the fault is after that. Either way it's a pain to find.

Not sure, but have you checked there is power at the fuses?

Allow it to go through all checks before putting foot on brake and pressing the start button. If that doesn't work try with the brake pedal held down constantly to see if its a pedal position sensor issue.

I saw scissor jack and thought you'd lifted the car enough to release the seat belt! They operate quite crudely but effective using a pendulum type arrangement that if it gets swung too far it locks the belt.

I would say to rule out linkage, disconnect linkage and move selector on gear box to see if it changes gear. Without the engine running. Easier said than done though I imagine as bleeding the clutch is a stretch down the depths.

I assume the gear lever is moving and is in the neutral position but still engaged gear. Can you see if the selector is loving when gear lever moved, down by the battery. The gear lever operates 2 rods under the car, could be worth looking at them.

Ah yes could have been.

Other diagnostics are available! Have a look through previous threads for recommendation. Some do specific vehicles and some do many vehicles. You'll need one that is able to operate the abs pump. Pscan gets good reviews on here. Quick eBay check and the launch is just over 100 pounds and is a...

I was sure you had mentioned the tool in the past, unless it was someone else but I thought you referenced another car. I never knew about such tool before. Pretty sure it's located in the glove box? That's just a guess though..

Handbrake, I've always done it by adjusting so it binds on the drum then back off adjuster slightly. Handbrake passes mot and holds car OK. Not pumping the brake as I found it made no difference. Air can be trapped in abs module which would need diagnostic tool to make it run, I use delphi...

Compression issues can sound like it trying to start, as it gets to the cylinder with low compression the starter can turn over quicker due to the lack of compression holding it back. Oscilloscope on battery and prevent from starting (fuelpump relay out) and readout will show battery voltage at...

Original post mentions release bearing noise. Release bearing noise will be when the clutch is depressed, make sure it is release bearing failure and not the issue quoted by andyfreelandy. Or could be air in the system still. My Td4 I bleed every 6 months or so.

I don't think it means an electrical relay, just a way of releasing brake pressure.

As far as I am aware that's where the internal valve relay is.

With fault of Ecu internal valve relay error, would point me to internal of the ABS pump.

Only takes a small leak in turbo to cause issues. I think there is a weak point where the plastic pipework can leak. Do you get any smoke from the exhaust, black or grey. Black smoke would lead me towards turbo, grey white is unburnt fuel (faulty injector or not firing on cylinder correct). No...