Yes, Thor will crank no matter what. If the code between the BECM and engine ECU has become mismatched, then you will get it cranking over but not starting. What were the faults that were shown in the ECU? I have Syncmates for rent which will plug in and resync the BECM/engine ECU if they...

Thanks Grrrr Yes, I do have Syncmates to rent for all versions of P38. And even better, I've just got back from work and am home for a couple of weeks before heading off again, so I can actually send one out Tuesday if required still.

Sorry, seen I've been tagged in this... but been away for work and just got back today. The single black wire is the ground for the microswitches in the door latch. Early latches had the 6 pin connector, and then to the other side of the latch is a recess with one single pin in it - which is...

They are more like the FC280 one that you posted the link to - the shaft length is about the right size, but the electrical contacts are at the front of the motor by the shaft on the P38 ones - rather than at the back. That seems to be the sticking point that I've found so far!

Fingers crossed we can get it working fully and properly. Currently about 90% there on it - first tests are promising, with the output looking pretty similar to the Gen 3 receiver - though they use different components, and I have no idea of how they actually do it, as everything that does...

They're a Mabuchi motor - but a long shaft version, and have the electrical contacts at the opposite end of the motor body to the other Mabuchi motor that is a long shaft version... I haven't been able to find them anywhere. I did find a place in Brazil that apparently had them (listed for a...

I believe I'm the person you are after.... I am away a lot for work, but trying to get things like door latches and bits like that sorted when I am at home... on here if you start a "conversation" with me and drop me a message with your VIN number, I can have a look and see what latches I have...

Glad I could help... I'll dig the pics off my phone at some point if I remember and post a couple up... Definitely the worst I've seen with regards to damaged wires - I chopped sections out of/and resoldered/heatshrunk 6 wires from memory. One of which being the F15 feed from BECM to rear...

Thanks Dan for the mention.... people don't have to send the old one back to me... but it does help :) I nearly have 3 different latches finished for people, and about 2 motors left after that... for about 30 latch shells I have! I keep looking for sources of new motors, but so far have been...

Just be careful with the eBay "Rare Walnut" stuff.... The wood trim in the P38 was ACTUAL wood veneer, covered in copious layers of lacquer... I looked at some stuff from one eBay seller who was selling 'rare' P38 wood trim bits - some of which pieces which I've never seen done in actual wood...

Sounds like your BECM has gone into total lockout - which normal diagnostics won't help you with. I think you're going to need to pull the BECM and send it off to get the internal lockouts reset - at which point it should be able to be put back in the vehicle and everything will be back to...

That will only work if the vehicle isn't in a locked/alarmed state though. If it's expecting the EKA, then this will need to be entered somehow to clear the lockout before it will allow it to be switched off. It wouldn't be very secure system if you could just bypass it by turning off the...

As I mentioned - 9999 is probably the 'placeholder' for the EKA on a locked BECM, which on a Nanocom displays as '----' You can't physically program a '9' for the EKA, as the digits have to be between 1 and 6 - anything over that and when programming it with a faultmate it throws up an error.

9999 on the Britpart kit is probably just a placeholder. Unless the programming lock on the BECM is turned off (Which you need specialist diagnostics for) you cannot read the EKA which is stored in the BECM. On a Nanocom, you get '----' on a locked BECM for both the EKA and fob codes. My...

Yes, the early L322 units which take a mapping CD rather than DVD fit, and work... to some extent. I put one in my vehicle as it came to me with a dead drive, and whilst I could get it to work, due to the differences in setup/integration into the whole infotainment system between the P38/L322...

If it's the white screen of death issue, then I believe there is a guy out in Eastern Europe who can repair them... I'm not sure exactly what the fault is, but believe it's something to do with corrupted memory ( I presume an EEPROM that's being written to when power is cut or something like...

In an Audi it would probably go around one/both ends. In the P38, I use it around the end that goes into the heater box. I then use some thicker stuff around the end at the entrance to the heater box, so it helps hold the core in place, and seals it up to stop air from bleeding out

Sorry, just seen this - I'm away working at the moment and haven't even switched my laptop on all week until now! I do still refurb door latches as/when I get the time/motivation to - which isn't as often as I would like! Work this year has been manic and I haven't had as much time at home to...

If the locks are jumping up and down, then it's most likely the door latch. It could either be the drivers or the passenger one. One way of telling is when it's doing it, see which one isn't moving as at least on later BECMs it won't trigger the latch that the input is coming from. Even...

19mm rubber heater hose is what I use. Will be a fairly tight fit over the heater outlets on the matrix and the metal pipes in the engine bay.