pete12345

pete12345

Well-Known Member
Full Member
my door keeps locking and unlocking itself as I drive or when I'm parked working on the car any advice much appreciated I've recently had fuse box problems with a blown relay could that be connected cheers
 
pete12345 said:
my door keeps locking and unlocking itself as I drive or when I'm parked working on the car any advice much appreciated I've recently had fuse box problems with a blown relay could that be connected cheers
Click to expand...
I believe the tailgate button can give the locking / unlocking problem, have you tried a search?
 
Yer done a search of the switch pack also plugged in the nanocom and tested the lock it locked all ok but when I got out the car and locked it on the fob it locked ok the sensor started flashing in the dash but as I walked away it locked itself again probley super locking
 
"Ghost" lock-unlock cycles on the doorlocks while driving along is usually the drivers door switchpack and the open/close switch "bouncing" because its fecked.
Driver's door switched also power the tailgate locking so it burns out sooner.
I had this earlier this year. Changed out the DS lock assembly and it doesn't happen any more.
 
Cheers dan will get a new switch pack is it inside the door card coz I only just put them back on my luck
 
pete12345 said:
Cheers dan will get a new switch pack is it inside the door card coz I only just put them back on my luck
Click to expand...
Its the entire lock assembly (not the barrel & key) and is c.£147 + Vat. or.... ask @martyuk because he refurbs them with up-rated switches. The deal is you get one from him and you MUST send him your old one so he can put it back into circulation (once fixed) for the next LR victim. I bought one brand new and sent him my old one, because he needs the base stock and some people fail to do the exchange :-(
 
DanClarke said:
Its the entire lock assembly (not the barrel & key) and is c.£147 + Vat. or.... ask @martyuk because he refurbs them with up-rated switches. The deal is you get one from him and you MUST send him your old one so he can put it back into circulation (once fixed) for the next LR victim. I bought one brand new and sent him my old one, because he needs the base stock and some people fail to do the exchange :-(
Click to expand...

Thanks Dan for the mention.... people don't have to send the old one back to me... but it does help :)
I nearly have 3 different latches finished for people, and about 2 motors left after that... for about 30 latch shells I have!

I keep looking for sources of new motors, but so far have been unsuccessful!
 
martyuk said:
Thanks Dan for the mention.... people don't have to send the old one back to me... but it does help :)
I nearly have 3 different latches finished for people, and about 2 motors left after that... for about 30 latch shells I have!

I keep looking for sources of new motors, but so far have been unsuccessful!
Click to expand...
What's the motor type? Are they no longer made?
 
DanClarke said:
What's the motor type? Are they no longer made?
Click to expand...

They're a Mabuchi motor - but a long shaft version, and have the electrical contacts at the opposite end of the motor body to the other Mabuchi motor that is a long shaft version... I haven't been able to find them anywhere. I did find a place in Brazil that apparently had them (listed for a different manufacturer vehicle - which again I couldn't find anything matching in the rest of the world!) but they wouldn't ship outside Brazil - so that was the end of that!

There was also a place on eBay that had some awhile ago, but they wanted £20/motor - and even when I asked about a bulk buy discount, they only offered like 10% if I was willing to buy 100 of them! Which considering the time it takes to strip/clean/reassemble a latch with new microswitches - £20/motor didn't make it economically worthwhile me even rebuilding the latch!...

I still keep an eye out and a search for them every now and again in the hope I get lucky, find a stash of them, and then can snap them up!! They MUST still be made somewhere, as you can still buy brand new door latches - which still have the same style motor in them! unless they got a batch of say 1000 made to use in manufacture of latches.
 
martyuk said:
They're a Mabuchi motor - but a long shaft version, and have the electrical contacts at the opposite end of the motor body to the other Mabuchi motor that is a long shaft version... I haven't been able to find them anywhere.
Click to expand...

I wrote to them years ago. Never got anything back. I've heard rumours the same motors were used in a Lincoln and some other cars but could never track anything down. Same motors were used in MGF of the same year but obviously they're getting old now too.
 
They are more like the FC280 one that you posted the link to - the shaft length is about the right size, but the electrical contacts are at the front of the motor by the shaft on the P38 ones - rather than at the back. That seems to be the sticking point that I've found so far!
 
Just bought my first Freelander 2 and experiencing very odd locking or rather not locking and wondering if it is what is being talked about on these thread. 57 plate. On locking with the fob, the boot hatch unlocks and makes clicking noises. Sometimes I've gone back to the car and the rear hatch door is clicking away merrily on its own. On trying to lock again on the fob, the horn beeps once only and the car won't lock. Obviously not secure, how on earth do I fix this?
 
Arrrr, he said Freelander...:p..
giphy.gif
 
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