simonlap

simonlap

Member
2.5 dse 1999. My EKA should not be 9999. I changed the complete fuse box, checked all was good before fitting it, car started ok, I set the windows, locked it using the fob. next morning I try to use fob to gain access, not working, I use the key which just opens drivers door and put key in ignition, message centre informs me engine immobilised and it says press fob or enter EKA. I have the Britpart diagnostic kit and it tell s me EKA is 9999, my handbook and card say its very different from that. It's not accepting any EKA codes.
 
simonlap said:
2.5 dse 1999. My EKA should not be 9999. I changed the complete fuse box, checked all was good before fitting it, car started ok, I set the windows, locked it using the fob. next morning I try to use fob to gain access, not working, I use the key which just opens drivers door and put key in ignition, message centre informs me engine immobilised and it says press fob or enter EKA. I have the Britpart diagnostic kit and it tell s me EKA is 9999, my handbook and card say its very different from that. It's not accepting any EKA codes.
Click to expand...

That is why you don't buy shitpart diagnostics. Use the EKA code on your card put it in properly. If you don't succeed with first two attempts open and close door for two more attempts. This avoids key code lockout.
 
I just nipped home to try my card numbers again, it made the right noises but when key in ignition message centre reads Key Code Lockout. It's now over 5 hours since I tried the 9999 code, I understood that you could re enter info after 30 minutes or so. I will try disconnect battery overnight and try in morning.
 
Tried again several times, getting no indication that the BECM is accepting the code yet after a few attempts the message centre still comes up with key code lockout whether I open the door after every attempt or not, the battery idea is not going to work anyway if you know anything about electricity.
 
simonlap said:
Tried again several times, getting no indication that the BECM is accepting the code yet after a few attempts the message centre still comes up with key code lockout whether I open the door after every attempt or not, the battery idea is not going to work anyway if you know anything about electricity.
Click to expand...


Put your diag in the bin and get a Nanocom to put the EKA code in with.
 
Sounds like a drivers door lock problem. Is the battery OK in the FOB? Does the FOB LED light when you press a button?
 
simonlap said:
I just nipped home to try my card numbers again, it made the right noises but when key in ignition message centre reads Key Code Lockout. It's now over 5 hours since I tried the 9999 code, I understood that you could re enter info after 30 minutes or so. I will try disconnect battery overnight and try in morning.
Click to expand...

The intervals between failed attempts get longer and longer. If you try too many times it will lock you out altogether. 9999 sounds like a default value. Are the indicators flashing with each turn of the key? There are lock tests you can do by Martyuk on here somewhere.

@mozz smith is the master at getting these things going.
 
wammers, I recently purchased a maxsys ms9065 for my other cars, £1800 so can't afford a nanocom at moment.
Datatek, I have a IR/RF detector and I have a great signal from the key.
Grrrrrr, the indicators do not flash at any time during key turns yet I still get locked out after a few attempts.

 
I found the article by MartyUK and I will pin out the door wiring tomorrow and get back with the result.
 
Hi Simon,
Sorry to butt-in but this advice helped another chap last month and got his EKA entered ok.
So.... just to confirm........
Start.....key turned to locked & back to vertical four times. <<Tells the BecM you are now going to enter the EKA Code>
Then <1st digit> entered in the unlocked (clockwise) direction and back to vertical for each time.
Then <2nd> digit entered in the locked (anti-clockwise) direction and back to vertical for each time.
Then <3rd> digit entered in the unlocked (clockwise) direction and back to vertical for each time.
Then <4th> digit entered in the locked (anti-clockwise) direction and back to vertical for each time.
Finally, Turn once to unlocked and all the doors should unlock and the car "should" be re-mobilised.
It is very important to make sure you deliberately and carefully execute each key-turn AND back to vertical (and no further).
The doorlock contacts do go dodgy with age & use.
The flashing of the side-repeaters or the dashboard lamp (depending on how the system was set up) are your only indications that your entries are being seen.
If they are not consistently being seen then you will need a Nanocom to re-mobilise the engine.

If you know you have cocked it up at any point just yank the door open and close it again and start from scratch (avoids the lock-out timer as said above).
 
Grrrrrr said:
The intervals between failed attempts get longer and longer. If you try too many times it will lock you out altogether. 9999 sounds like a default value. Are the indicators flashing with each turn of the key? There are lock tests you can do by Martyuk on here somewhere.

@mozz smith is the master at getting these things going.
Click to expand...
hi grr I keep entrering 9999 all that happens is I get police- fire brigade - ambulance & and a fella in a white jacket from the local sychiatric dept ????? the mind boggles hey ??????, hope yer well grr .. will send this poor fella a message. kind regards mozz
 
mozz smith said:
hi grr I keep entrering 9999 all that happens is I get police- fire brigade - ambulance & and a fella in a white jacket from the local sychiatric dept ????? the mind boggles hey ??????, hope yer well grr .. will send this poor fella a message. kind regards mozz
Click to expand...

All good mate. Sounds like the microswitches in his lock actuator might be acting up but I'm sure you'll be able to sort him out. I hear you saw some sun in Stockport the other week. Global warming, eh?
 
I found the article on door switches, tested them all out and they are all good. Tested the key on a proper IR RF detector, put new batteries in it, same, good signal.
 
9999 on the Britpart kit is probably just a placeholder. Unless the programming lock on the BECM is turned off (Which you need specialist diagnostics for) you cannot read the EKA which is stored in the BECM.
On a Nanocom, you get '----' on a locked BECM for both the EKA and fob codes. My guess is that on a Lynx, it just shows 9999 as the placeholder. I have a feeling that hawkeye does the same.

If your door latch switches are good, then you first need to wait with the battery connected for KEY CODE LOCKOUT on the dash to disappear BEFORE attempting to enter the EKA.

You might get a flash from the indicators on the first 4x turns of the key to initiate the EKA entry or you might not. It will depend on whether the alarm is on and the settings for that.

As mentioned, do the turns slowly and to the end of the travel, and back to the center for a bit. Once the first 4x turns to lock are done to initiate the EKA sequence, you should see the sidelight telltale on the dash flash once for each recognised turn of the key. Count these as you enter the digits to make sure it's recognised every turn successfully.

Hope this helps,
Marty
 
wammers said:
Put your diag in the bin and get a Nanocom to put the EKA code in with.
Click to expand...

Britpart Lynx is about the only decent thing Britpart sell. I have never had a problem with it and often find it more accurate than the Nanocom, although the Nanocom is more convenient. I haven't tried their new Evo one, I try and avoid anything appy
 
tom1979 said:
Britpart Lynx is about the only decent thing Britpart sell. I have never had a problem with it and often find it more accurate than the Nanocom, although the Nanocom is more convenient. I haven't tried their new Evo one, I try and avoid anything appy
Click to expand...
Can your Lynx put the EKA code in?
 
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