Without going into too much detail in a public place... You need to have the key in the ignition AND turned to position 2 (disconnect the ignition switch wires first so it doesn't power up the vehicle!) before you can put the pin in to release the cylinder. But as the others have said - you can...

Yeah, the ones I got from RS were Cherry made switches - I think DC1C-A1AA and DC3C-A1AA from memory... though the last time I ordered some, it seemed that they didn't have Cherry made switches in stock (they were on backorder for something silly like 6 months) so I went with a different brand -...

I use DC series microswitches - 0.1A for the key switch on drivers latches, door ajar switches on all latches and the central locking switch on the LHF latch. I use a 5A rated version on the CDL on the RHF latch as the tailgate motor grounds through it - so hopefully the higher rated contacts...

Sounds like you need to test the replacement latch. The tailgate grounds through the CDL switch in the RHF (UK Drivers) door latch - so if that is open circuit the car will think it's locked, and as it never changed state, it won't think it's been unlocked properly, and the tailgate won't work...

I don't have many refurbed door latches at the moment as I still have a number that haven't been returned to me after sending them out. However... I was give 3 dead ones by another owner at a workshop meet yesterday - and one of the other owners who turned up had one to return aswell... so...

If the part numbers are the same, then they should. There were a lot of HEVAC revisions in the P38 production years, and some of the older units aren't compatible with the wiring on the later vehicles (AC compressor wiring changed and is the big one that might throw the book symbol - but if you...

I try to - but I've only had probably one latch sent to me in the last 6 months - and even then I haven't had the time/inclination to refurbish it yet as I've been busy with other things. I've got one owner sending me their old latch to add to the collection, and another owner giving me 3...

Does the radio etc mute when the sat nav is supposed to say something, or just absolutely nothing? If it mutes but says nothing, then I'd suspect the audio wiring between nav computer and the DSP amp. If it doesn't even mute, then I'd check the mute line wire between the nav computer and the...

The wink face implies you think I don't know what I'm on about... which is fine... I'll defer to you infinite "wisdom" as it seems to be on this forum. Despite the fact that I've refurbished probably going on 50+ door latches, so actually know what I'm on about and how they work/common faults...

Superlock is done inside the latch, with the normal locking mechanism - as I've already mentioned - the superlock motor is only used in conjunction with the CDL motor to put the latch into superlock mode. To get it out of superlock, you don't need to activate the superlock motor again as the...

The superlock motor is only used to put the latch into superlock mode - it moves a spring/loaded pawl aside to then let the CDL motor drive the locking mechanism a second time into the superlock position. Unlocking only requires the CDL motor to be driven (Pink/Orange wires as wammers...

You only need to trigger the Central Locking motor to get the latch to unlock. With the front door open, the connectors to the door *may* be accessible - I can't remember. You can also get to the wires at the BECM end. BUT if it's not locking/unlocking on the command from the BECM, then it...

Those microswitches are the ones I replace in any door locks I work on - for that exact reason. In the RHF Door latches, I also upgrade the CDL switch which does the grounding for the tailgate from a 0.1A contact switch to a 5A contact switch - as I wonder if that is one of the problems over...

Nanocom, far best value for money. Faultmate, as mentioned are VIN locked - but you also need to hook it up to a PC with software to communicate to the vehicle. Nanocom it's all in one, and fits in the glove box/ cubby box so you have it with you all the time.

No, there is no relation between the EAS ECU and the ABS ECU - other than the fact the EAS ECU gets a road speed signal (though this is sent from the BECM anyway, after it receives the road speed from ABS ECU). If you are getting the lights on all the time, and it's only started happening since...

If the passive immobiliser has been turned OFF in the BECM then the key WILL NOT flash when you put it in the ignition.. The coil around the ignition is disabled when passive immobilisation is turned off, so this in turn disables the friendly sync. So putting the key in the ignition and not...

I'm not going to go into the replacing the EAS ECU with something else - there are benefits to it if you like to tweak things, but also, 90% of the time the standard system works fine if maintained - like most things with these vehicles.. Pet peeve #1 - it's not ODB - it's OBD... On Board...

Nice! The tray under mine in the picture was actually from parts washing/de-greasing - I had bought a number of second-hand parts which I cleaned up/ refurbed like front cover), so the tray was where I did all that in the garage. Mine has a random oil leak though, but doesn't seem to drip too...

For the moment we've stopped doing them with the status LED as an option, as it wasn't that popular, and we were looking at putting connectors on it to make it a bit easier to install - but haven't yet found any we like the look of and seem small/sturdy enough. I can fairly regularly leave mine...

I think the 8 bigger ones are injector seals of some description for older (Lucas hotwire?) EFI - The others, I *believe* are for things like the water feed/return from the inlet manifold - again on the older (maybe 3.5 or pre serpentine) engines. I had them left over on mine (thor) too...