tank93

Active Member
Morning All,

Have a strange issue on my 1997 P38a Range Rover which I am hoping somebody can advise me on or give me some pointers.

Sometimes when I get out of the car and close the door the locks activate on their own (go down and back up again) without me pressing the remote.

Is this likely to be a lock actuator problem or the outstation playing up (not sure what the outstation actual does if I am honest hence asking).

Thank you
 
try Martyuk`s lock test, but sounds like new latch time.
 

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+1 ^^^

Might have to pull the door card off and make sure the wires aren't fouling on the window mechanism or similar. They should be tied out the way. Might also be worth checking the boot switch. If it is earthing through that from water ingress or similar it might cause some issues.
 
+1 on new latch mine was doing that whilst driving and at park also tailgate opening problems , fitted new latch cured it. Plenty of guidance on here how to change it, bit fiddly but very doable.
 
Thank you I will try the test. Can these latches be overhauled and repaired (not sure if there is a repair kit available) or is the only option an expensive new latch?
 
Thank you I will try the test. Can these latches be overhauled and repaired (not sure if there is a repair kit available) or is the only option an expensive new latch?

Yours is 97 which is a changeover year, I think. They can be refurbed. The older ones with 2 plugs are simpler but the later ones can be done with a bit of fiddling. @martyuk refubs and sells them on his site although I am sure he'd tell you which microswitches he uses. Motors are a LOT harder to find. MGF ones from the same year fit and just clip in and out. I never found any new ones.
 
Yours is 97 which is a changeover year, I think. They can be refurbed. The older ones with 2 plugs are simpler but the later ones can be done with a bit of fiddling. @martyuk refubs and sells them on his site although I am sure he'd tell you which microswitches he uses. Motors are a LOT harder to find. MGF ones from the same year fit and just clip in and out. I never found any new ones.
I found a company in Vietnam but they would only supply a minimum of 1000
 
Ghost "clunks" of the locks is usually the microswitches failing as said above. Always a bit spooky that. Fun when you travel over bumpy ground and the cill-buttons are popping up and down. :)
 
Ghost "clunks" of the locks is usually the microswitches failing as said above. Always a bit spooky that. Fun when you travel over bumpy ground and the cill-buttons are popping up and down. :)
Its great when you can tell mother inlaw its her talking that's causing the locks to play up, used to keep her quiet for a while anyway:D:D:D
 
Yours is 97 which is a changeover year, I think. They can be refurbed. The older ones with 2 plugs are simpler but the later ones can be done with a bit of fiddling. @martyuk refubs and sells them on his site although I am sure he'd tell you which microswitches he uses. Motors are a LOT harder to find. MGF ones from the same year fit and just clip in and out. I never found any new ones.

I use DC series microswitches - 0.1A for the key switch on drivers latches, door ajar switches on all latches and the central locking switch on the LHF latch. I use a 5A rated version on the CDL on the RHF latch as the tailgate motor grounds through it - so hopefully the higher rated contacts will last for a bit longer. They aren't a drop in replacement though - I have to pin them in with a couple of bits of threaded rod - as the '97 on models had all the switches formed into one moulded block... which I get, but it makes them a pain to swap!!!

I have a few dead latches which have been returned/given to me so I might be able to supply a limited number of latches at some point - once I actually get some time off from work and can get cracking on them at home.

I found a company in Vietnam but they would only supply a minimum of 1000

Any idea what they would charge for 1000 of them? It's tempting for me, I'm not going to lie!
 
I use DC series microswitches - 0.1A for the key switch on drivers latches, door ajar switches on all latches and the central locking switch on the LHF latch. I use a 5A rated version on the CDL on the RHF latch as the tailgate motor grounds through it - so hopefully the higher rated contacts will last for a bit longer. They aren't a drop in replacement though - I have to pin them in with a couple of bits of threaded rod - as the '97 on models had all the switches formed into one moulded block... which I get, but it makes them a pain to swap!!!

I have a few dead latches which have been returned/given to me so I might be able to supply a limited number of latches at some point - once I actually get some time off from work and can get cracking on them at home.



Any idea what they would charge for 1000 of them? It's tempting for me, I'm not going to lie!
That's interesting, I use Cherry brand 2 amp micro switches for all 3. The moulded block is a PITA.
 
I use DC series microswitches - 0.1A for the key switch on drivers latches, door ajar switches on all latches and the central locking switch on the LHF latch. I use a 5A rated version on the CDL on the RHF latch as the tailgate motor grounds through it - so hopefully the higher rated contacts will last for a bit longer. They aren't a drop in replacement though - I have to pin them in with a couple of bits of threaded rod - as the '97 on models had all the switches formed into one moulded block... which I get, but it makes them a pain to swap!!!

I have a few dead latches which have been returned/given to me so I might be able to supply a limited number of latches at some point - once I actually get some time off from work and can get cracking on them at home.



Any idea what they would charge for 1000 of them? It's tempting for me, I'm not going to lie!
I cannot remember at the moment, I'll have to power up my old laptop and see if I can find the email.wasn't a mega amount
 
That's interesting, I use Cherry brand 2 amp micro switches for all 3. The moulded block is a PITA.

Yeah, the ones I got from RS were Cherry made switches - I think DC1C-A1AA and DC3C-A1AA from memory... though the last time I ordered some, it seemed that they didn't have Cherry made switches in stock (they were on backorder for something silly like 6 months) so I went with a different brand - but same current capacity/size and still IP rated.

I cannot remember at the moment, I'll have to power up my old laptop and see if I can find the email.wasn't a mega amount

Drop me a message if you do find it... 1000 motors seems a lot, but it's one of those things... I could probably get another 10 or so door latches finished in one go by having a supply of motors, as that's the main bit I'm out of, as a fair number of the return units that DO come back have burnt out motors in them. I bought 500 of the HEVAC connectors when I ordered them, and still have a couple of hundred left about 3/4 years on - but it's something worth having a stock of, and CDL motors I would put in the same bracket!
 
Yeah, the ones I got from RS were Cherry made switches - I think DC1C-A1AA and DC3C-A1AA from memory... though the last time I ordered some, it seemed that they didn't have Cherry made switches in stock (they were on backorder for something silly like 6 months) so I went with a different brand - but same current capacity/size and still IP rated.



Drop me a message if you do find it... 1000 motors seems a lot, but it's one of those things... I could probably get another 10 or so door latches finished in one go by having a supply of motors, as that's the main bit I'm out of, as a fair number of the return units that DO come back have burnt out motors in them. I bought 500 of the HEVAC connectors when I ordered them, and still have a couple of hundred left about 3/4 years on - but it's something worth having a stock of, and CDL motors I would put in the same bracket!
Will do Marty.
 
Just to close this one off I fitted a new front passenger side door latch today and thankfully the bouncing locks have stopped so guess those micro switches were playing up in the old latch.
 

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