If the passive immobiliser has been turned OFF in the BECM then the key WILL NOT flash when you put it in the ignition.. The coil around the ignition is disabled when passive immobilisation is turned off, so this in turn disables the friendly sync. So putting the key in the ignition and not having it flash is perfectly normal if the passive immobilisation has been disabled, as he says it has.

If you then cannot sync the key in the drivers door, then I would be testing the microswitches in the door latch. Whilst it sounds like they are working as they should, if you can't sync then key then maybe on of them is intermittent. It could also be the RF receiver has been unplugged at some point in the past (either antenna or to whole unit completely) to try and combat RF issues, or battery drain - who knows without a bit of checking.

If you are getting ENGINE DISABLED PRESS REMOTE, then the BECM hasn't shut the immobiliser off (NOTE even with the PASSIVE immobiliser disabled in the BECM, the vehicle is still immobilised when it is locked with the key. However, when the vehicle is unlocked, it is mobilised again until locked, unlike with the passive immobiliser which will automatically disable the engine after a timeout period).

If you have locked the vehicle with the key, and then unlocked it with the key and got ENGINE DISABLED then I would again suspect the microswitches in the door latch, as without a working remote, the vehicle relies on these working properly to tell it if it has been locked/unlocked with the key. If the key switch has failed, then it will assume the vehicle has been unlocked by the sill lock (which would normally trigger the alarm when the door is opened, and also give ENGINE DISABLED). But then I would expect only the drivers door to unlock - not all of them.

Without actually being there and seeing your vehicle/being able to diagnose it, I can only guess - but if the remote doesn't work and you/previous owner(s) have been relying on the key in the door to lock/unlock the vehicle, then I would be checking the microswitches very carefully - they are known to fail, and will cause all kinds of problems. Once that's checked out, then you can start working on the other things - like seeing if the RF receiver is plugged in and getting the fob to sync.

I would also try to get the EKA for the vehicle if you don't already have it - if it is a later model, then you should be able to disarm the BECM using diagnostics, which might get you back into a state where you can start/run the vehicle and be able to diagnose some of the other issue easier.

A lot of the time locking/immobiliser issues all come down to simple faults which then cause the BECM to react in certain ways - it's easy to get mislead or confused by things like engine disabled, remotes not working etc, when the issue is something simple (though it can cause a lot of headaches along the way!)

I hope this helps,
Marty
 
Hi Marty and thanks a lot for all your support and all the support you all are providing!!!
I was trying any kind of procedure to get the engine back and active alone in the middle of a raining and frozen nowhere...
The door latch was fitted brand new some weeks ago and when I use to unlock the driver's door using the key it unlocks all the doors.
At the end I have carried it to the LR local dealer in Florence.
Today I called to the LR Dealer which referred at first: The P38 is a complicated security model and moreover now it's obsolete....
Anyway they are now running the diagnostic and hopefully will provide me with a feedback this afternoon.

H
 
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Hi all
She's finally back to cross lands and mountains
At the dealer they told me it was a battery fault. Once fitted a new one and EKA applied she was roaring back.
Even if I am still confused on how a 2 months battery died unexpectedly especially cause I had the car running in the morning.
Anyway! Now she's back.
 

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My view would be that when he had a dicky latch, the garage turned off the immobiliser and the EKA. New door lock was fitted, but they were not turned back on. See post #24.
 
It could probably be that way.
Now since it's working and the guy have executed once again the EKA when delivering back the car and it worked I could say I'm more confident.
By the way, they were unable to resync nor activate the remote...
Till next stop I'll enjoy the ride
Thanks again wammers and happy new year to all of u!
 
It could probably be that way.
Now since it's working and the guy have executed once again the EKA when delivering back the car and it worked I could say I'm more confident.
By the way, they were unable to resync nor activate the remote...
Till next stop I'll enjoy the ride
Thanks again wammers and happy new year to all of u!

Sounds like they have switched need for EKA back on but left immobiliser disabled.
 
It could probably be that way.
Now since it's working and the guy have executed once again the EKA when delivering back the car and it worked I could say I'm more confident.
By the way, they were unable to resync nor activate the remote...
Till next stop I'll enjoy the ride
Thanks again wammers and happy new year to all of u!
Resyncing the FOB it seems can be a problem, I have discovered that if the rolling code is too far out, Easysync fitted post 99 cars does not work. Resyncing has to be done via the CDL door lock method and may need the passive coil disabled in temporarily in the BECM for it to work.
 
how can I work on BECM by my own?
I mean is there any other apps other than nanocom to use to modify BECM settings?
 
Resyncing the FOB it seems can be a problem, I have discovered that if the rolling code is too far out, Easysync fitted post 99 cars does not work. Resyncing has to be done via the CDL door lock method and may need the passive coil disabled in temporarily in the BECM for it to work.

Easysync was fitted from 1997 on wards. Try clearing RF memory.
 
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Easysync was fitted from 1997 on wards. Try clearing RF memory.
I don't have a 97 car so cannot be sure of what would would happen with that year as there are BECM changes.
Clearing the RF memory does not help on it's own.
 
How do you get around the problem of a lost fob,as I only have 1 fob left as the missus has lost the spare fob.
 
I don't have a 97 car so cannot be sure of what would would happen with that year as there are BECM changes.
Clearing the RF memory does not help on it's own.

Only BECM change i am aware of is that a BECM in an alarmed state can be disarmed using the EKA code on versions PAM V 36 or better.
 
Fobs can only come from a main dealer ordered to your car and come from the original maker in Germany, do not try the second hand and reprogram route that some sellers try to say it will not work, a key from another p38 is worthless.
 

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