If you had nothing working in the drivers door BEFORE this happened, then skip trying to enter the EKA for the moment, and get looking at the connectors in the A pillar (body side) where the door wiring loom connects to the vehicle wiring. They are known to corrode (as do the ones in behind the...

Interesting - On my tester, where I've got an LED on the output to the ignition coil circuit, it shows it as pulsing on and off every half a second or so until the BECM receives a code from the fob - when it stops driving the output.

As pretty much everyone has mentioned... RHF door lock has the grounding for the tailgate motor, and I believe it wears the contacts on that microswitch quicker, as they are only rated at 0.1A. I replace them with 5A versions on the latches I rebuild to give a bit more headroom! Jumping door...

To clarify a few things from my research and testing: EKA enabled/disabled - disables the need for the EKA - say it's gone flat with the battery connected, then you'd need the EKA more than likely when the power is restored. Turning EKA should stop this from being required. The only time it...

There is something weird going on with USB to serial adapters at the moment - especially ones with the Prolific chipset. A lot of them appear to be fake chinese clones of the chip - which apparently some vendors aren't aware of, and even if the driver installs properly, it won't actually work...

Just had a look in the ETM to remind me, and the coil packs don't ground through the engine block - so having all the bolts in won't make a difference. The coils all get a 12V feed from the fusebox, and then the engine ECU grounds the coils it's firing to complete the circuit - there's no other...

Windows mirror, sunroof etc - could be an issue with the 12V feed to the switchpack off the BECM, or it could be the switchpack itself - especially if there has been moisture in there. If you get 12V at the switchpack connector (should be there permanently and comes from F1 on the BECM), then...

I know what you mean - I often have trouble getting the thoughts that seem organised in my head, out onto paper/typed up! never seems to quite come out the same! Not affecting my business at all! If anyone is wanting to repair their own then I'm all for it - which is why I did my write up on...

I've probably repaired 30+ switchpacks now. I did 7 of them the other week, and have another 3 or 4 sitting in a pile here waiting for me to get the enthusiasm to pull them apart... I take the switch contacts off the board, only because I've found a few where the pads on the PCB have surface...

I've used an air chisel a number of times now with pretty good success... This is also the precise reason I always tell people doing radius arm bushes to buy a new set of bolts aswell! Luckily I generally keep a few old ones (that did come out OK) about for the inevitable time when someone...

Good to hear you got it fixed! The size wire they use (I think it's 1mm2 from memory) is good for near on 16A at 12V - so running if across from the RHR light definitely won't be a problem current draw wise. The RHR light is also fed from F15 aswell - so ultimately it's coming from the same...

The offer is still there - I'll be home for the foreseeable future! I am in the middle of sorting out and testing a load of BECMs I have here (about 20 of them I think!) and have sucessfully managed to actually trace and repair some logic board faults on some of those spare boards that I have...

I am back at the moment, yes! I can't guarantee I could fix it either - my faultmate is the baby version with just the BECM CPU module installed, as that's all I use it for.. But I DO have Vehicle explorer installed, and on a machine with an actual serial port - so I am happy to take a look...

It can't hurt to take the lid off and have a look. You'll be able to tell pretty quickly if it's blown the track as it will be black and burnt where it's gone. Repair costs... if I were to look at it and it's repairable - between £20-£30 plus return postage to fix/test it. Worst case if it's...

Sounds to me that if F1 blew, and then has blown a few more times, and now doesn't blow - that chances are the track on the power board in the BECM is now burnt out. It's probably fixable. You would want to make sure that the short is definitely fixed before putting a repaired BECM back in...

In addition to the above. There are no "unlock" signals sent from the BECM - it handles all of that internally. The microswitches in the drivers door, as you have found are: Door Ajar Switch: Found in every door, and feeds an input into the BECM if the door is open/closed Key Switch: Found...

Thanks Grrrrr, Yes, I was supposed to be away on tour until the middle of June - with another possible show straight after than until the middle of August. But as the entertainment industry pretty much evaporated overnight (it was like a switch for us - one night we were told of a few venues...

The fault codes that Nanocom reports from the ABS ECU are true to what corner is is... so if Nanocom shows a fault reported on Front/Right, then it IS Front/Right where the fault lies. The discrepancy on Nanocom comes from the live data screens - where it shows the data from each sensor, but...

Mine's run in parallel. Vapouriser is T'd off the feed to the heater matrix, and back into the return from the heater matrix. I don't have any issues with the vapouriser getting cold, or the heater matrix for the interior getting cold. Flow seems to be OK. I did have mine in series for...